Thread: Need help w/ razor finish

Alright Gentleman,

I've spent hours sanding this thing...I used a dremel to remove most of the big stuff then started with 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500. Then I wasn't happy with it so I started over, and then once more. It was black as night and w/ a tad of rust when I got it. My arms hurt I've been sanding so much...but it hasn't paid off...this is what the razor looks like:




I'm thinking I might have caused this with the dremel...and I need some help trouble shooting w/ what to do next and how to get this fixed...if it is even fixable

Thanks

Anyone? I could really use some help...

Can I ask the obvious did you get all of the scratches/pits out back at the 120 grit? If you aren't satin at the beginning you won't be shiny at the end.

Looks like maybe uneven dremel sanding. That's why I rarely use a dremel on the blades to sand the face. Try some rough grit sandpaper and see if you can fix it up at all. RF is right about getting it looking decent at low grits before progressing.

What do you guys consider "rough grit"? 120? 80? 40? Should you never go lower than a certain grit on a blade? I'd be too afraid of irreversibly scratching the blade.

I consider it around 220. Some guys even go lower. I think I have actually gone lower before. Your call. It's just trial and error really.

Originally Posted by Philadelph

I consider it around 220. Some guys even go lower. I think I have actually gone lower before. Your call. It's just trial and error really.

+1 Agreeing with Alex here 220 is about as far as I push it, I do remember on very stuborn pitted blade that I think I used some 180 grit on

Reviewing the very first post here, I used a dremel to remove most of the big stuff then started with 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500.
That got me thinking, Did you possibly use the rust on the blade to sand the blade, in other words did you burn the rust into the blade by using the dremmel first?????
I would have done this the other way around and used the paper first then used the dremmel only to polish the blade after...
Maybe someone else has done it this way and had success....

.... and I have some 80 grit paper for pitted wedges...

120 or 180 seems a better place to start most pitted wedges.
I would pick a 220 based on your picture. It looks rough but not pitted.

Thanks for all the help guys. I sanded it first to get all the grime off, then I used a dremel, and the dremel caused all of those unsightly scratches. I guess I'll take a 220 to it until its smooth...I do not think I burned it, but I will keep you guys posted. Another question, how do you guys like to sand? I'm thinking about getting some fillet gloves and then continuing the hand sand because I don't want to lose the fingers. Would it be wise to pick up one of those hand sanding blocks that you stick sand paper to?


One more note...it had light pitting in the beginning, so...being that my bill ellis cd hasn't arrived yet and I was eager to start on one of my 45 newly acquired razors, I decided to use the sander on the dremel to remove the pitting...and it worked only to create this new pain of a finish... :-/

If you want something to remove metal a little quicker, I've had good success with a 120 grit flap wheel. If you're careful to keep it flat and move it around at a decent pace it can do a great job without the manual labor of hand sanding. The important thing to know is that whatever you're using can do the job wrong easier and quicker than it can do it right, so pay attention and take your time. (My first flapwheel use also left lots of deeper scratches because I wasn't keeping it flat enough.)