Thread: sanding rust with a dremel

I just got a vintage genco to learn how to hone with and I need to clean it up a bit as well. There are several mild rust spots on the blade that I would like to try sanding off with my dremel. Can some one give me some tips on how to do this? Would I use a flap wheel? if so what grit would you recomend? Also, what chemicals do people use to help remove rust? I've read a lot about maas on here but I'm under the impression that it is just a polish and not a rust remover, us that correct? Thanks! Dave

MAAS will remove minor rust and i would try it before moving to more aggressive methods in any case just so the blade is clean.

i often start with a carbon steel wire brush on the dremel use a really light touch and the scratches will not be bad then hand sand if you are keen on sanding...

otherwise thing about some pastes on a hard felt dremel wheel... i use, in order, brown, jewelers rouge (red) and green

use different wheels for each paste and only use a small amount of paste too much will leave make a mess. again light touch and keep the blade/dremel moving at all times.

I would definitely try to use MAAS and polish the blade with a dremmel to see if the rust can be removed using MAAS.

I have not had a successful time with using the dremmel to sand the blade and remove the rust. It just creates very deep scratches which you will have to eventually remove by hand sanding

IMO Hand sanding is the way to go. Yes it takes longer hours depending on the severity of pitting and rust on the blade.

okay, thanks for the tips guys. Looks like I'll be getting some sand paper and Maas tonight. I was hoping to use my dremel to sand as it seems a lot faster but I don't want to scratch the heck outa my razor. It's better to do it right than to do it fast.

With the dremel it is easy to remove material near the edge that will affect your ability to hone the razor. Or; at least make it more difficult.

Watch it as you get near the edge to be consistent.

Nice info. I know that many, in addition to me, benefit from these questions and the answers
Thanks

I learned the hard way that a dremel is a very dangerous tool to the blade (and to yourself). I ruined a very nice Henckels by using the rotary tool too near the edge... It cracked
From that day on, it's hand sanding all the way...

Originally Posted by Leon

I learned the hard way that a dremel is a very dangerous tool to the blade (and to yourself). I ruined a very nice Henckels by using the rotary tool too near the edge... It cracked
From that day on, it's hand sanding all the way...

That's why you are supposed to have it rotating away from the edge. For those parts where you need to have it rotating into the edge, make sure the blade is flat up against the working surface (a piece of 2x4 in my case).

The dremel is a blessing and a curse with regard to rust and pitting.
My latest attempt has been the 400 grit flap wheel.

It does a tremendous job of take a pitted wedge to almost satin at 400 EXCEPT you may end up with what appears to be a wavy surface as the result of the seperate tracks and uneven pressure while grinding. I do.

This meant dropping down to 320 grit and hand sanding furthur to undo the damage done by the dremel. On a wedge this mistake is recoverable. On a hollow ground I would think the junk drawer would see a new victim.

Bill makes it look easy with his big grinder on his video, zip, zip, done. BUT you would have to ruin a lot of blades to have his touch.

I will likely continue to try to master dremel with a gentler touch and reduced rpm but you have been warned. If the blade has any value either sentimental or money hand sanding is likely the safest way to do the least damage.

Sixgun's (glen) experiments with the shell casing polishers seem to be as safe or possibly safer (appears to work with fine etch) depending on your choice of media in some ways but it's hard to beat 40 hours of careful selective hand sanding.

-Bob

Originally Posted by RobertFontaine

The dremel is a blessing and a curse with regard to rust and pitting.
My latest attempt has been the 400 grit flap wheel.

It does a tremendous job of take a pitted wedge to almost satin at 400 EXCEPT you may end up with what appears to be a wavy surface as the result of the seperate tracks and uneven pressure while grinding. I do.

This meant dropping down to 320 grit and hand sanding furthur to undo the damage done by the dremel. On a wedge this mistake is recoverable. On a hollow ground I would think the junk drawer would see a new victim.

Bill makes it look easy with his big grinder on his video, zip, zip, done. BUT you would have to ruin a lot of blades to have his touch.

I will likely continue to try to master dremel with a gentler touch and reduced rpm but you have been warned. If the blade has any value either sentimental or money hand sanding is likely the safest way to do the least damage.

Sixgun's (glen) experiments with the shell casing polishers seem to be as safe or possibly safer (appears to work with fine etch) depending on your choice of media in some ways but it's hard to beat 40 hours of careful selective hand sanding.

-Bob

Hi,
can you tell where find that 400grit flap wheel, allI found is 320grit,
who make it?
thanks