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Thread: Binging out a Henckels Friordur
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03-29-2008, 04:24 PM #11
Dremels run between 5,000 and 30,000 RPMs, I think. The buffer runs at 1750.
The difference isn't as dramatic as that, though. One revolution of a 10" buffing wheel moves about 31" of material over the surface you're buffing. One revolution of a Dremel felt wheel moves 3" of material over the surface, if you're using the 1" wheels.
There's math to be done in there somewhere, but I'm not the guy for it. I think a buffing wheel would run about half as fast in terms of surface feet per minute as a Dremel wheel going full tilt at 30,000 RPM.
One big difference is the bigger buffing wheel means the heat doesn't build up in the wheel as much, which keeps the piece cooler.
Josh
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03-29-2008, 04:43 PM #12
Ah thats not too bad you can do the math like this I guess using those figures.
For the buffer:
(31 inches)(1750rotations) / (1 rotation)(1 minute) = 54250" per minute
For the dremel it works out...
(3")(5krot) / (1rot*1min) = 15k" per minute
(3")(30krot) / (1rot*1min) = 90k" per minute
(3")(xrot) / (1rot*1min) = 54250" / 1 min ...
xrot = (54250" / 1 min)(1 / 3")(1rot*1min)
xrot = 18083 1/3
So with those estimates the dremel is about equivalent to the buffer if the dremel is set to about 18krpms. Above that's approx how many inches of material are rubbing across the surface per minute at the various rpms.
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03-29-2008, 05:10 PM #13
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Thanked: 735Aha, but let's also geek out and consider the difference in surface area in contact for each one?
A smaller dremel has a smaller contact patch, so is the heat more or less intense than a large radius buffing wheel?
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03-29-2008, 05:42 PM #14
I'm pretty sure the dremel with less surface area is going to heat up more rapidly, less surface area obviously equates to more heat as it doesn't have anywhere to go, whereas with a larger pad the heat would be spread out over a larger area and consequently be less.
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03-29-2008, 05:48 PM #15
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03-29-2008, 05:57 PM #16
Well, I got up this morning and looked at the blade and thought to myself, I can do better. So off to the garage for another hour. This time I pasted a wheel in 0.5 chromium oxide and went at it again.
I don’t have time to read through all the posts, the wife wants to go to the store so just a fast post. Buffer, I have a low RPM purpose built machine, but you still cannot dwell long in one place. You have to keep the blade moving. A rotary tool runs much, much faster and will burn even quicker.
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03-29-2008, 06:32 PM #17
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Thanked: 735The sunshine glint on that last pic is MINT!!!
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03-30-2008, 03:08 AM #18
Well, I drilled the scales, fitted the wedge and seal coated it. Made my pins (I use 1/16 brass rod and peen them myself) set the stainless washers and put the blade bearings in. then peen’d it all together and stood back to look at it. Damn, that about sums it up. The wife saw it and ogled over how nice it looks. I am quite happy with how it turned out.
The extra blade buffing was worth it. It was time consuming but worth it. I have 4 or 5 hours just in the buffing. I still need to hone the blade but if shaves half as good as it looks, it will be one heck of a razor. I took these photos in the kitchen under the light, not the best light source. Once the sun comes up it will really shine.
So without further delay, Dave’s custom works presents…..
The dancing twins, with bling.
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03-30-2008, 03:37 AM #19
Isn't that big a$$ grin on your face worth all the buffin???
It looks fantastic..
Shows us all what a piece can look like.
WONDERFUL!
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03-31-2008, 01:50 PM #20
I got the razor honed up late Saturday and gave it a shave Sunday with two days of stubble. Clean as a whistle in two passes, I like this razor.
Sunday I decided to put in a third pin and spacer. The blade is just too wide to use just the pivot pin, the blade was to tight, the scales were pinching it. So I measured and drilled the third ping and worked the spacer into the scales. Much better, then I opened the razor like I was going to use it. I got the blade 180 degrees around and then it stopped. The monkey tail on this blade is quite long, it was just hitting the spacer, another 1/32 and it would have been good . So, I had to grind out the pins and move the blade to another set of scales. That will teach me to make sure that not only will the blade clear the spacer but the monkey tail as well. on any other blade it would have not been an issue, I will reuse those scales on another razor.
The weather out here is lousy, gray and rain so I gave in and used the flash on the camera to get a better photo of the new 3 pin scales. The kitchen lights gave the photos a green tint; this is what it really looks like. I am happy with it.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to cannonfodder For This Useful Post:
RMC_SS_LDO (03-31-2008), TOB9595 (03-31-2008)