Thread: dumbest newbie ever

I agree to try metal polish of any kind, but I kind of doubt that will do it. I'm betting you will need to sand it.

Originally Posted by richardhead

That makes me think of the dubl duck I sent you with the warped scales...

That's why I use a heat gun now. Last year I saw one of my prized razor handles melt in a pot.

Originally Posted by ottoman

Thanks for the tip! Although, I do not think I can get any of the above mentioned over here. So, what ingredient shall I look for in a metal polish, and what compounds should be avoided?



I think I am gonna try metal polish first, and take some pics afterwards, and ask for further advice from you guys!

Thanks for all your helpful comments, gents!

Instead of MAAS you could use Autosol, I think that one is easier to locate in Europe.

Originally Posted by bjorn

Instead of MAAS you could use Autosol, I think that one is easier to locate in Europe.

Thanks for the tips, guys! So far I did not manage to get Autosol, but it seems to be available here too. Tomorrow I will have some more time to look around the city.

What I did manage to get, are the so called "wet papers" or "auto-papers" by Klingspor (Germany). I have now the following grits: P80C, P100C, P150C, P180C, P220A (auto-flex), P240A, P280 (this one was made by Hermes), P320A, P400A, P600A, P800A, P1000A, P1200A, P1500A, P2000A, P2500 (this one was also made by Hermes).
Is there a difference between the P(number)C and P(number)A labeled papers? If so, what is the difference?

I will try to get some Autosol tomorrow, and try to work with it on the blade. I will let you know how it goes.

Originally Posted by bjorn

Instead of MAAS you could use Autosol, I think that one is easier to locate in Europe.

Ah, so autosol is equal to MAAS?, I was looking at it, but was not sure.. I already bought, erhm, Autoglym Metal Polish, but made a mess out of it..

Originally Posted by JoshEarl

You etched the blade, essentially, in a very uncontrolled manner. Carbon steel doesn't like acids such as vinegar. Live and learn.

Josh

Yeah, we all saw the blade that Josh "accidentally" turned black with acid...

Okay. So, after the polish material I could get did not work, I started handsanding. I slowly progressed from 80 to 220 (P80C, P100C, P150C, P180C, P220A). I have spent hours sanding, and now I really respect those who do it by hand!

My question is: shall I progress, or step a few grits back? Actually, I was thinking about spending another hour sanding with the 220 grit.

Any suggestions?

Depends.

It looks OK as it is, however, the cardinal rule of handsanding (if you want a perfect finish) is that you do not go up in grit until ALL pitting is gone.
I know it is tempting, but damage is removed the fastest with low grit paper.
the higher the grit, the longer it will take.

So if you really want to get rid of the pitting and make the blade pristine, then you have to stay with 180 or 220 max until you cannot see any damage anymore.

Originally Posted by Bruno

Depends.

It looks OK as it is, however, the cardinal rule of handsanding (if you want a perfect finish) is that you do not go up in grit until ALL pitting is gone.
I know it is tempting, but damage is removed the fastest with low grit paper.
the higher the grit, the longer it will take.

So if you really want to get rid of the pitting and make the blade pristine, then you have to stay with 180 or 220 max until you cannot see any damage anymore.

I had a feeling you gonna say that...
But never mind! I shall return then to 180 and see how far I can push myself.
I'll be back with some more pics in a few days - I hope.

By the way. Does it make any sense to go below 180? Or does it make more trouble than good - ie deep scratches?

Yes you can go below 180 grit. On extreme cases I have used 80 grit. Just remember, it takes a long time to come up from the large a grit. You also take off a lot of steel. I have seen more then one spine damaged from too aggressive sandy on the spine. Sanding the side of the spine will change the bevel angle on the edge.