Thread: Insane hand sanding

Just kinda finished up reworking a Temperite by Case. I went from 400 to 2000. There is still some pitting from rust that was on the blade, but not much.
I haven't done too much blade restoration, as most of what I've aquired, the blades were in decent shape. BUT, after 4 hours of dealing with this one, you guys that are into the hand sanding mirrored finish are INSANE!

There has to be some kind of disorder named for such a venture as this. I logged onto the forum to discuss this, and then see Joe's restorations that look like the mirror in the bathroom.

Just venting, I will post pictures when done. In the meantime, I'm looking for more power tools.

Jerry

Originally Posted by kilowattkid

Just kinda finished up reworking a Temperite by Case. I went from 400 to 2000. There is still some pitting from rust that was on the blade, but not much.
I haven't done too much blade restoration, as most of what I've aquired, the blades were in decent shape. BUT, after 4 hours of dealing with this one, you guys that are into the hand sanding mirrored finish are INSANE!

There has to be some kind of disorder named for such a venture as this. I logged onto the forum to discuss this, and then see Joe's restorations that look like the mirror in the bathroom.

Just venting, I will post pictures when done. In the meantime, I'm looking for more power tools.

Jerry

A agree, the hand sanders get a hats off and a bow from me. I tried it recently on a 5/8 extra hollow Challenger spike point with 1500 grit wet/dry. It got the light pitting and patina out, and I certainly was NOT reaming on/applying hard pressure to the hollows when sanding but..............................I found it was enough pressure to result in me taking a great albeit tarnished blade that WAS perfectly flat when laid on a hone on both sides of the blade....to now having the edge NOT lay flat. Basically I warped the edge big time. I only have myself to blame. Frustrating though.

Chris L

I have spent 5-6 hours working out the pits on a wedge and still had some left. I just got tiered of sanding. I am going to try grit paste on buffing wheels to see if I can speed up the process and save my hand. I gave up on the Dremel and got a real knife grinder/buffer. It is so much easier, rubber coated fish fillet gloves work nice as well when using the buffer. You still have to come by and we can buff out some blades. I still need to get more 1/16 brass rod. I used up all I had making pins.

Originally Posted by kilowattkid

There has to be some kind of disorder named for such a venture as this. I logged onto the forum to discuss this, and then see Joe's restorations that look like the mirror in the bathroom.

Keep pluggin' away, dude. You notice those are all wedges? There's a reason for that. I started off hand sanding, too. Got decent finishes, then realized I didn't need the pain and aggravation. I'd rather regrind and have basically a new blade. There's just not enough metal in full hollows for me. My hats off to the guys still doing it by hand.

Dave,
This blade I'm working on may be a good candidiate. Funny you mention the 1/16" rod, I'm using some right now to hang some scales to dry out. I'll get ahold of you real soon.
Jerry

P.S. Thanks for the encouragement Joe. I have 2 wedges that I think I'll do next. Can't be any worse than this blade.

Originally Posted by kilowattkid

In the meantime, I'm looking for more power tools.

Jerry

Don't cross over to the dark side man!!!

Honestly, I have never had the opportunity to try regrinding a blade but if you have the access, go for it.

Originally Posted by Joe Chandler

Keep pluggin' away, dude. You notice those are all wedges? There's a reason for that. I started off hand sanding, too. Got decent finishes, then realized I didn't need the pain and aggravation. I'd rather regrind and have basically a new blade. There's just not enough metal in full hollows for me. My hats off to the guys still doing it by hand.

Wedges are a lot easier, especially if you have the toys to regrind. The only problem, especially with FULL wedges, is once you get a nice mirror, you have to go and scratch it up again on the hones. I'm still working on an old Frederick Reynolds where the bevel is still not all the way to the edge. It looked awsome off the buffing wheels, but now it's ugly again.

Originally Posted by floppyshoes

Wedges are a lot easier, especially if you have the toys to regrind. The only problem, especially with FULL wedges, is once you get a nice mirror, you have to go and scratch it up again on the hones. I'm still working on an old Frederick Reynolds where the bevel is still not all the way to the edge. It looked awsome off the buffing wheels, but now it's ugly again.

I've never seen a "full" wedge. Every razor I've ever handled had some concave, even if it was minimal. As far as being "easier", I find it's much easier to get a full hollow even.

I spent 6 hours hand sanding today. I did a square point Morley but most of it was spent on a George Wostenholm and Son wedge. It was in wretched shape. It should take a polish nicely now. I think I will a little single malt and head to bed. My arm hurts from sanding all day.

You know you have been sanding for a while when your hand looks like this after you have washed it several times.

Boy, Dave...you are more dedicated than I am. My hat is off to you.