Thread: yea I messed up

I may have attempted to dremel this dubl duck and chipped off some of the end.

Can this be fixed?

not a duck!!!!!!! Man, that's gotta hurt.

Bummer.

Let me ask you this: Do you think it could be fixed and if so, what are some of the ideas you think might work?

If you really wanted to, you could take great pains to slowly grind the toe end of the blade down shortening the blade by the entire width of the chipped area. But I don't think it'd even be worth the time to try.

Most of us have dropped, chipped or broken razors in our time. I dropped one after shaving about a week ago and as Gary/Traveler so wisely instructs, got the heck out of the way of that falling razor and just let it fall. it fell javelin style, hit the floor dead square on it's toe and.........was/is completely unscathed. I couldn't recreate that if I tried. Another time.......not so lucky.

Chris L

Well I bought this duck not too long ago. I guess you could cut it down like this one. It shaves great and is super easy to manuever and get the hard to reach places. I'd try something like this before scrapping it. Hope this helps and my condolences to your duck.
Brian
http://straightrazorpalace.com/showthread.php?t=19760

File that killer point off of the blade to round it off a bit, hone it up, and keep it forever. You now have a great shaver that you no longer have to worry about keeping pristine--kinda like that first good door ding in a new car!

Grind off the nose and round her up or another spike...

While grinding DON'T grind the edge with the Dremel (it is too thin), grind only the spine and halfway down the belly.
Use the hone or high grit sandpaper and carefully shape the edge and thinner part of the belly.

Shorties make excellent shavers... easy to maneuver... easier to hone and strop... not to mention lighter... like driving a sports car.

Filing will get you nowehere, but this is easy enough to fix, since you already have a dremel. For this job, the dremel rules. No need for files or sandpaper.
Put on a cutting disc, and cut off the broken part. Important: you cut from the edge to the spine, because if you do it the other way, the blade will break again if you are almost done. The edge cannot handle any load.

Also, when you touch the edge, make sure the disc is spinning in the direction spine -> edge. You really don't want the disc into the edge.
You'd think that overheating is a real problem, but it's not too bad. I did this twice and had no problems.

So now you have a spike point. If you want (I did) you can turn it into a notch point or spanish point. Simply use a coarse 1/2" drum wheel, using something like 12000 or 15000 rpm.
If you are sanding from the spine to the edge, make sure that the drum spins in the same direction so that it pushes back.
If you sand from edge to spine, so should the drum.

The reason is that this way you always have control over the drum, and if you are touching the edge or the spine, it won't suddenly grab your razor and maul it.

Also regarding heat: you might think that low rpm is better for sanding and cutting, but it's not. if you cut at 5000 rpm, then it goes slow, and you give the heat lots of time to transfer. with 15000 rpm the disc cuts rapidly and the 'hot' spot will not be in the same place for long.
This is just my experience. I only did this on 2 blades, but it turned out really well for me.

Here is a thread with pics when I had the same problem as you. Only in my case the tip simply fell off because it was so rotten that ther was no steel left when all the rust and pitting was gone:

http://straightrazorpalace.com/showthread.php?t=18600

Gonna end up with a shorty...

I have always wondered why newbies try to do their first restore work with a dremmel??? Have not they been warned?! I mean, it is just such a waste of nice razors... arrrrggh

(Note: I am also a newbie, but I handsand!)