Thread: "Fusion" Scale Blanks: How-To

First I'd like to give some credit to Buddel who was the first to do this.
This recipe makes 2 sets of blanks, mirror images of each other. I prefer this method because it doesn't waste wood.

1. Buy or make 1/8" stock from two woods you'd like to use.
2. Make 2 pieces of each about 1-1/2" x 6" (4 pieces total)
3. Use double sided tape or rubber cement to stick all 4 pieces together in a sandwich. Placing the harder/tougher of the woods on the outside will reduce the possibility of blowouts from the saw later, otherwise order does not matter.
4. On a Scroll Saw with the finest blade you can find, cut your pattern. The patterns you can do and the final snugness of the fit is entirely dependant on the blade selected.
5. Once the pattern is cut, carefully disassemble the pattern and lay it out.
6. Glue the pattern together. The type of glue you use will depend on the intended finishing products. For CA or varnish (polyurethane) I find carpenter's glue works well. For oil or shellac, you might consider using CA or epoxy based adhesive (just be sure not to get too much on the face of the blanks of the finish may not adhere correctly)
7. Using an orbital sander, sand the blanks until they are flat and the pattern is flush.
8. Continue on to make your scales

Notes:

• Use a medium-low speed on the scroll saw for harder wood or thicker blanks. This step is time consuming and rushing it can cause scorching or the blade could break. Some experience on the scroll saw is an asset.
• Small gaps in the glue line can be filled with home-made plastic wood. Mix a small amount of the sawdust from the scroll saw (already a 50/50 mix of the 2 woods) with carpenter's glue until a wet paste is formed. Fill the gaps with this paste by rubbing it in with your thumb. Once filled, rub off the excess with a damp cloth.
• Delicate woods or thin blanks are best employed with a liner (brass works well). Apply the liner onto the blanks after they are sanded flat.

Pics attached are of blanks made this way with Rosewood and Curly Maple:

Simply put...bad@ss.

Good of you to share that mate...

Great information.

Greg Frazer

Nice light tent! i just built one myself.

Back to the thread at hand:
Nice timing, I was just wondering how to do this!

Originally Posted by sicboater

Nice light tent! i just built one myself.

It really makes a difference I find. That and the 500W Tungsten lamp I used. Believe it or not thoses were taken with a 3 MP Point and Shoot. LOL

This is great information. Do the scales need to be lined if they are hard wood? I am just curious because I am not sure how strong the seam would be. Thanks!

Thanks for sharing! Those woods look great together.

Is your stand a Cooper hockey puck? I haven't seen one of those in years


Bob

Originally Posted by rodd

This is great information. Do the scales need to be lined if they are hard wood? I am just curious because I am not sure how strong the seam would be. Thanks!

Depends on the woods you're joining. If the wood is dense and/or oily, I would line it if I were you. Domestic hardwoods and some of the more porous exotics should be fine with plain wood glue.

Yes, it's a cooper puck. The Czech kind you can't get anymore.

that particular pattern required 2 cuts to the stack right?
that takes it to a whole new level, double fusion.

Originally Posted by The0ctopus

that particular pattern required 2 cuts to the stack right?
that takes it to a whole new level, double fusion.

Correct, 2 cuts.
Double, tripple, quadruple... why not. The principle remains the same.