Thread: What makes a good wood for scales?

I hope this is posted in the right place.

What defines a good scale material? Well let me clarify, a good material as far as wood is concerned. Does it have to be a hard wood? I always thought flattened bamboo or cedar could make a beautiful scale set but I have never seen them. Are they too soft or too light?

You want something with a little weight and durability, so hardwoods are generally used. Cedar would be pretty soft and porous, and also would be prone to split when the pins are tightened. Bamboo might work, as it seems to be showing up everywhere these days -- from bowls to cutting boards to flooring. It would be pretty light, but it seems durable enough.

I thought of cutting up bamboo cutting boards, never tried though.

Bamboo is hard, but prone to splitting.

When one says a wood is "hard" it can mean a number of things. Wood is what is called an Anisotropic material, meaning it's properties vary with direction and polarity of force. Some woods perform very well parallel to the grain but crush easily perpendicular to it. Others deform very little when subjected to compressive forces but separate easily under tension. For scales, a tight grained wood is preferable so that the pinning procedure doesn't split it as easily. Other properties to consider are specific gravity (weight), porosity, uniformity and cut (radial, tangential or sometimes even end cut).

The look of the specific piece you're working with is also paramount. Almost any wood can be used in conjunction with a liner material (metal is good for this). Sometimes a liner isn't needed, but you could put a big "ugly" knot right in the middle of your scales without consequence if you reinforce it properly.

The quantity and quality of knowledge on this forum never ceases tp amaze me. Thanks guys. I was just thinking that a piece of cedar with some purple would look nice and it hit me that it's a wood I never see listed. Now I know why. Perhaps when I get some more experience I will start experimenting with more unusual woods for scales.

"Anisotropic", there is a term for me to wiki.

Originally Posted by Sancho

I thought of cutting up bamboo cutting boards, never tried though.

I've been trying to do this lately, so far I haven't had much luck. The pieces come off the table saw ok but
My jig saw has one blade roller missing, which allows the blade to chatter breaking the scales.

My scroll saw was my dads and probably made in the 1940's, the blade vibrates up/down and side/side so much that the blades will break themselves without a piece of wood to help stop it. It has no place for any blade guides.

Using a coping saw without a bench pin is next to worthless. In one day I managed to break 3 sets of Corian scales and another set of the bamboo. So untill I either get a bench pin, or a new scroll saw I'm almost at a standstill on making scales.

So with all this I think using a cutting board will work, once its all cutout and sanded the CA or epoxy should help keep it from cracking.
The cutting board I picked up at Ross, a discount department store. It was about 5X7 in and cost 2.99

Bob

Most of the exotic hardwoods work really well. An incomplete list: ebony, mahogany, ironwood, purpleheart, yellowheart, tulip wood, lacewood, snakewood, bloodwood, padauk...

Try to find a Woodcraft or Rockler store nearby. They have lots of good stuff.

Josh

Originally Posted by JoshEarl

Most of the exotic hardwoods work really well. An incomplete list: ebony, mahogany, ironwood, purpleheart, yellowheart, tulip wood, lacewood, snakewood, bloodwood, padauk...

Try to find a Woodcraft or Rockler store nearby. They have lots of good stuff.

Josh

You can shop online with Woodcraft. They have turning blanks that are about the best value in exotics you'll find anywhere. The turning blanks aren't kiln dried so if you do buy this type of stock, it is best to rough cut some pieces way oversize (about 200% of your nominal) and let it acclimate to your environment for a week or so. Then so your final cutting:
http://www.woodcraft.com/depts.aspx?DeptID=2123

Don't forget the stabilized woods

http://www.knifeandgun.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=47

I have used olive, blood, zebra, lace, cocobolo, Brazil walnut, purple heart, Madagascar rosewood, cherry, oak, black walnut. The only ones I have had any issues with were the Oak (large wood pores, needs a sealer) and the Brazil walnut, it is very hard but dry and brittle so it wants to chunk if you try to route it.