Thread: I'm on pins !

Originally Posted by shuredgefan

I've only taken apart two vintage razors, one a Robeson had no internal washers and a Genco that had internal washers which were paper thin.

When I installed an adjustable pin on the Robeson, I used regular size (relatively thick) #0 washers as spacers. They work fine but are visible and kind of unsightly.

Anybody know were to get small super thin washers to serve as spacers?

Try buying some thin brass shimstock and cutting/drilling washers from it. I bought a big sheet of .015" brass and have made several sets of washers, works great and is nearly invisible.

To make em, I just draw/trace the outside diameter, mark the center, drill the center and cut to shape with sturdy shears.

They are not perfectly round, but that is hidden by the scales. If you are really anal retentive, you can just drag it edge first across sandpaper till it is round enough for ya.


By the way, they sell that shimstock at Ace hardware, Lowes, and many craft stores. They even sell silver as well!

Originally Posted by joke1176

Try buying some thin brass shimstock and cutting/drilling washers from it. I bought a big sheet of .015" brass and have made several sets of washers, works great and is nearly invisible....

??? The regular brass washers I get from microfasteners.com are already 0.015" thick. To make thinner ones for the pivot thrust washers, I use the 0.005" brass foil. You can use a good-quality paper hole-punch to punch out the circles, then drill the center hole 1/16". They even come out of the punch with a little curl, which is what you need in a thrust washer.

Clever bugger
I like it

Originally Posted by Cyclophile

Are there any considerations for corrosion when using steel washers? My local hardware store has the correct size...but in steel rather than brass.

SS under cerain circumstances can corrode and depending which grade or series can rust too. Normally SS has an extremely good and general resistance but they can be susceptible to pitting corrosion.

Originally Posted by joke1176

They are not perfectly round, but that is hidden by the scales. If you are really anal retentive, you can just drag it edge first across sandpaper till it is round enough for ya.

You might be able to mount the washer in one of those screw-together Dremel attachments that you use for cut-off wheels. Turn your Dremel on at the lowest speed and touch the edge to a piece of 400-grit wet-dry sandpaper... Instant round washer.

Josh

Originally Posted by JoshEarl

You might be able to mount the washer in one of those screw-together Dremel attachments that you use for cut-off wheels. Turn your Dremel on at the lowest speed and touch the edge to a piece of 400-grit wet-dry sandpaper... Instant round washer.

Josh

Just what I was thinking

Originally Posted by JoshEarl

You might be able to mount the washer in one of those screw-together Dremel attachments that you use for cut-off wheels. Turn your Dremel on at the lowest speed and touch the edge to a piece of 400-grit wet-dry sandpaper... Instant round washer.

Josh

Excellent idea!

I'll give it a try.

Originally Posted by JoshEarl

You might be able to mount the washer in one of those screw-together Dremel attachments that you use for cut-off wheels. Turn your Dremel on at the lowest speed and touch the edge to a piece of 400-grit wet-dry sandpaper... Instant round washer.

Josh

Ho ho!! I like that idea. BTW, I mic'd the brass sheet I make inner-washers from and it's .010", not 0.015". duh

Originally Posted by fritz

??? The regular brass washers I get from microfasteners.com are already 0.015" thick. To make thinner ones for the pivot thrust washers, I use the 0.005" brass foil. You can use a good-quality paper hole-punch to punch out the circles, then drill the center hole 1/16". They even come out of the punch with a little curl, which is what you need in a thrust washer.

That is a great idea! I like the way you think.
Simple is good.

Charlie

I have pinned 30 or 40 razors this year, I just use size 0 stainless and brass from microfasteners. I use the stainless as the pin base with a brass washer over it then the domed/peen bras rod. On the blade, I use a stainless washer on either side of the blade, I will also put a nylon washer between the stainless washer and blade which adds a little smoother action. The nylon provides a slicker surface for the blade to move against and has the benefit of being corrosion resistant. The stainless washer will not ware against the carbon blade with the nylon buffer. The nylon washers are incredibly thin so they add 0 width.