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  1. #1
    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
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    Default Dry vs wet/dry paper

    After some experimenting and trying different kinds and brands, I've come to the conclusion that wet / dry paper sucks for using dry.

    I always sand without water, and wet/dry paper loads up quickly and it has to be replaced often. It also doesn't cut as fast as dry paper.
    Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
    To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day

  2. #2
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    I use 1000 or 1500 grit wet and dry paper to establish a new bevelled edge.

    If I use the paper wet, the edge is smoother at the 1000 grit stage. However, I have found that I prefer to establish a rougher edge at the 1000 grit level and let my coticule do the smoothing. For this reason, I use the 1000 grit wet and dry paper, dry.

    For polishing the rust off an old blade, I would use the paper wet as I agree with you, the dry paper clogs quickly.

  3. #3
    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
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    Actually, my point was the opposite.
    From what I found so far (for the purpose of rust and pitting removal) for dry sanding, dry paper works much better than wet/dry, because wet/dry doesn't cut as aggressively as dry, and it also clogs up faster.
    Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
    To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day

  4. #4
    Senior Member smythe's Avatar
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    I think most wet/dry paper is silicon carbide, cuts very fast but doesn't last long.
    Dry paper is emery, doesn't cut as fast as SC but lasts longer... I have never seen dry paper in higher grits than 400.

    Why do you not sand wet?

  5. #5
    Senior Member blabbermouth spazola's Avatar
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    The gold sandpapers such as Mirka gold, and 3m's 216 U work well and are avilable in high grits 800. The sand papers are a little pricy but I think this is one of the times where you get what you pay for. They are both designed for dry sanding.

    As a side note most papers that are made for dry sanding will work well with kerosene or mineral spirits as a lubricant.

    Charlie

  6. #6
    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
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    The papers I bought last are aluminium oxide.

    I don't sand wet because I don't like to have water on the blade while sanding
    also, atm I am using a small electric wheel grinder which I've converted to a low rpm polisher. I cannot use it wet. first of all because it wouldn't be safe with the cheap electric motor, and second because the rotation would make a mess out of my workplace.
    Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
    To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day

  7. #7
    Senior Member smythe's Avatar
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    I see... then for you it's better dry.

    I use a DC motor connected to an adjustable power supply, it sits over the kitchen sink, and the tap is high enough to allow water to trickle just above the wheel.
    I could run the motor so slow with the motor still having good torque, with no water I can hold the blade for minutes at a time and the blade will just get warm. But I cannot stand the dust so I run with water.

    I also prefer to wipe up splash than vacuum dust.

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