Thread: light pitting: Best method from here on??

Hey guys,

I've started restoring those JR blades that I got in that seven-day set. The pitting under the surface rust is so fine as to make it appear no more than water spots, but with my macro function on my digital camera you can see that it is indeed pitting, it looks almost like a fungus blotched here and there on the blade, and when you run your finger over it, it feels smooth, only with the nail can you feel the slightest of surface difference.

So my question is, what is the best and safest method to remove this staining/pitting from the blades? Some of it is really near the edge, and I'm worried about thinning the edge too much with the sanding - how do you guys resolve light pitting like this near the cutting edge??

Also, these blades thicken slightly just behind the edge and then go into the full hollow, is this normal, and if so why is it like this? Also are there any problems with thinning this thick part with the sanding?? Sorry if these are dumb Q's, but I've read the guides and have even got Bill Ellis' CD, but obviously not every aspect of every kind of razor is covered..

So I just want some input before moving forward with these. I'm looking to give them a mirror-finish, like they came from the factory...

Thanks.

Best method I can suggest is to first use metal polish (MAS, simichrome, etc…) on an inconspicuous spot such as the back of the tang and see if that get it out.
If that doesn’t work then use hi grit sand paper (2000g) and work down to the lower grits until one gets it out easily… dong this by hand is best.
At some point you may have to make a decision to live with some “flaws” of go all the way and clean it up… its up to you.

The thickening behind the edge is called the Hamburg Grind… done at the factory it gives the full hollow ground blade some stiffness. Most triple ground blades have this necessary feature
Whatever you do no not sand too much to "thin" or remove that ridge behind the edge… or the blade will become too thin to be useful.

Hope this helps my friend.

As for the pitting near the edge you can attack with one of two ways… or both.
Finish cleaning up the blade and when it comes to honing the edge simply then hone past the pitting… or you can fold sandpaper between your thumb and forefinger (or whichever other finger is strongest), then pinch the edge and run the paper along the length of the blade... and try to avoid the edge cutting into the paper.

Thanks Smythe, your comments are greatly appreciated. I've pretty much started along the lines of handsanding with 220 grit paper which is proving the most effective, then I'll progress to the finer papers, and do the staining on the edge last with a fine grit paper, so as not to remove too much too quickly from the already thin edge.

It's just good to hear from other members before going all the way with it..

Thanks again.

With that kind of pitting and blackness, start with 220.
If the progress is good, keep at it until all the damage is gone. There is no point in going up until all damage is done. If that takes too long, you can go down to 180, 150,120 or even 80.

The thing is: you want to remove the pitting completely, and you want to remove it as efficient as possible.
As long as the pitting is still visible, you might as well use 80 grit paper to sand, because you are only removing metal that has to be removed anyway. Using a higher grit will achieve nothing but a sore arm, and it will take you lot longer.

With a thin grind, you'll find that the edge will get worn unevenly (wavy). The only way I've found is to grind the edge flat. Take the blade and move it around perpendicular to a sheet of sandpaper, grind down until the waviness is flat and then rehone on a coarse stone.

Mark