Thread: Is there a point at which it is pointless?

A friend gave me a razor that is in pretty bad shape. Not sure of the age, but it is a Royal " Keen Kutter". There is significant pitting along the blade, and rust along the spine. The shank is also quite rusted. I was just wondering if it was possible to restore. I definitly do no have the skills to do it, so any reccomendations would be great.

I can post pics later.


Thank you


Forrest

Without pictures there is no way to tell really. I've seen some pretty bad razors that the folks on this board have cleaned up to look very nice.


Bob

Like Bob just said pics would help, the pitting is the scary thing, rust is not near as bad as the pitting...It also has a lot to do with the grind itself, heavier grinds = more steel to play with..... I have taken some wedges and 1/4 wedges back from the "pits" of Hates, (pun intended) where as the full hollows and hollows can't be pushed as far.....
The pics will help a lot......

great guys I dont get off work until 11pm, but I will post pics as soon as I get home.


Thanks for the quick replies.

I am 2 shaves into my 100 with my dovo. I am waiting on a strop to come in. Is it ok to strop with a newspaper, maybe once? And could someone explain the procedure. I just dont wat to shave again without stropping.

Originally Posted by forrestp38829

Is it ok to strop with a newspaper, maybe once? And could someone explain the procedure. I just dont wat to shave again without stropping.

You can't hurt the razor by stropping on newspaper. Just lay the newspaper on a flat surface and lay the razor flat on the paper (both spine and edge touching) and move the razor in the direction of the spine (spine leading, edge trailing) with a very light touch and absolutely no pressure other than the weight of the razor. When you get to the end of the paper, roll the blade on the spine (not the edge) with your fingers and push it in the other direction. Each up and back is one lap. Do 50 laps before each shave. Make sure not to lift the spine off the paper.

Here are the pictures, tell me if you think it is worth it, the scales are broken, but the edge will still shave arm hair after 50 years, maybe more. Bought it at a yard sale for a buck.


All opinions are welcome.


Thanks,

Forrest

BTW, I know its not what you guys are used to but I just got done WTG and XTG with my DOVO Timor BLue Steel and my face feels great.

I've restored things that were WAAAY worse than that.
And in your case, the badness is on the spine where there is room for removing the damage.

the one thing you need to check is if the pitting is deep or not, because that will decide whether you can keep the etching or not.

WHAt type of dremel attachment do you recommend for removing the rust and tarnish? I am quite skilled with the dremel I frag corals on the side.

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ing-howto.html

A belt grinder is not a real option because the razor is hollow ground, so handsanding is your best bet imo.
If you really want to use a dremel, use flap wheels. Not drum wheels.
Removing a measurable amount of metal with a drum wheel is going to leave visible traces.

But the dremel flaps only come in low grit, so you'll have to do the high grit sanding by hand anyway unless perhaps if you use cutting and polishing compounds. But so far I haven't played with those.

thanks, so much...I guess i better get started on a custom sanding block.