Thread: My First Razor Resto

Howdy all!
I am fairly new to all this, so please bear w/ me. I inherited this straight razor (put up a post about it awhile back) from Great grandfather (I believe) and am wanting to save it as a daily razor, but have it cleaned up nice. I am trying to attach pix so ya'll can see the progress. went to home depot looking for maas, but picked up Brasso instead (they didnt have Maas). Ran the dremel at low speed. there are some rust spots (along monkey tail) that I am just not able to get out w/ buffing wheel and compound (rust "gone" but still pitted). I am unsure if I can get this thing to a mirror polish, but would like to if possible (hints welcome btw). I have gone over the blade now twice and not happy w/ it yet. More polishing compound? Get Maas?? go w/ fine sandpaper? What to do about monkey tail? (if at all possible to clean up). Also, I have a few old dog bones I am thinking bout making some scales out of since these are kinda flimsy celluloid. Any helpful veterans here on the post got suggestions?? They are much appreciated!

You need to get some Maas; in terms of strength, speed, effort, and luster, (especially on steel), it puts Brasso to shame. The scratches on the tang will probably not come out unless you start sanding, but some Maas might clean up some of the oxidization in the scratches, and it will clean the rest of the razor leaving it shinier. Look for it at another hardware store, I promise you won't regret it.

Also, run some maas up and down the scales with some papertowel (not a dremel, you will melt them!) and it will make them shiny as well as shine up that neat inlay in the scales!

I agree with picking up some Maas, but if you want to get that baby looking ship shape you should really consider rescaling it and doing a good sanding job on the blade. You may not want to try your first resto on your great grandfather's razor, but if you think you can handle it go for it.

I would recommend hand sanding the blade and not using any power tools (a lot easier to do irreparable damage). The scratches on the tail don't look too deep and the blade is in excellent shape so I think you could start on the blade with 600, maybe even 800 grit and work up to 2000 then polish with Maas, but the tail will probably be easiest if you started with something in the 300-400 range. If anyone disagrees please speak up, but I would start on the tail/tang and work up to 600 or 800 grit (which ever you choose to start the blade on) and then work on the whole razor going up a step at a time. I would recommend reading some of the hand-sanding tutorials that are posted in the forum. I think it was Bruno that had a really good one. Either way if you go for the hand-sanding restoration you'll probably be looking at no more than 8 hours of sanding on the blade, not including the scale work.

With respect to the scales I don't know about using old dog bones. With such nice history in a razor like that I'm sure you like it to look it's best when you're all done. I'm a serious wood fan so I'm a little biased, but some nice desert ironwood, olive, or some wood with a nice figure in it would make that razor quite the showpiece. I wouldn't go with something too dark or complicated (bone would fit these requirements). If you don't want to go crazy and do the whole nine yards (buy the wood, cut it into slats, shape, sand, finish and peen the scales) I'm sure you can find someone here who will whip up some scales for you and go to what ever stage you feel comfortable finishing yourself. I myself would be happy to help if you need. I make strictly wood scales with an epoxy finish. PM me if you're interested. Really the scales are the easy and cheap part to make if you have the set up. Best of luck with your new hobby.

I will no longer use power tools on my blades. I ruined a twinworks blade, and almost ruined another blade with a dremel. So, no more of that foolishness.