Thread: Project Razors

I was in a local antique shop today and noticed 3 razors: a W&B "B Special" 5/8, Otto Busch "weltmeister" 4/8 and a "Artifex" 5/8. I picked up the W&B and the Artifex for $20.00 and left the Busch behind because 4/8's seems a little small. Can anyone advise on the following:

1) Artifex - Can't find anything on this razor online. Is it any good, is it stainless or not etc?

2) Otto Busch - Should I have left this behind or should I have taken it instead of the Artifex? The Busch was in great condition but I was put off by the Stainless Steel blade as well as the size.

3) I know I've seen postings on here about making handles and polishing blades but I now can't find them. Could someone post a link?

4) Recommendations for a good handle material for a first attempt (wood or otherwise)?

All help greatly appreciated.

This would probably be a better question for the the restoration forum.

But fwiw, most razors will be suitable for use if you can get the edge honed back into the good steel rather than the corroded stuff at the edge.

Are you sure the blades are stainless? Sometimes it can be hard to tell if there's no direct statement to that effect.

Here's a link that has links to various threads on resto topics: http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...tials-faq.html

Judging from the tarnish in the pics I would say niether one of them is stainless.IMO

Agreed on this being posted in the wrong section, I was rushing to get out for night shift and clicked into the wrong forum...my bad. As to the blades the W&B is definatly carbon. As to the "Artifex" I can't find any info. on the manufacturer so I'm a bit stumped. The blade is heavily tarnished but I can't find a piece of actual rust or pitting anywhere. Not that that's a bad thing but I'd be surprised if a little damp/condensation hadn't done a bit of damage.

Any thoughts on the condition of the W&B? I'm starting to work on that tonight. I noticed there's very little wear on the blade but when I place it on the hone the front edge doesn't sit flat. Then when I flip it over to the other side the problem goes away. No warping evident anywhere either.

Moved this from The Forge to The Workshop - a more appropriate venue.

Questions, comments? Please email or PM me.

Well, from what I can tell from pretty dark pictures, it seems like your average restoration - look at the "hand sanding how-to" thread, and the "pinning and unpinning" thread, and then have at it! You'll be amazed at how most clean up nicely - then have one sent out to be hone (probably the W&B) to get a baseline so that you know how sharp a razor has to be and you'll be good to go!

Good luck, and keep us posted.

Mark

As to the edge not sitting flat. You said there is very little hone wear. I have a resto that had tons and tons of hone wear that sat on the hone the same way. The front was "wobbly" on one side only. It was from asymmetrical hone wear. The razor needed some edge repair, so I did most of the aggressive "honing" on the side that was wobbly. That corrected a good deal of it. But if you have little hone wear, i wouldn't go creating a bunch. I would just learn how to hone it, and call it a blade with personality.

OK. I've now got the blade from the W&B sufficiently buffed and a new set of scales fabricated (from honduran rosewood) and I've got a couple of quick questions.

1) I'm thinking of using the same wood for my wedge. Would this be advisable or should I go with something that has a bit more "heft" to it as the original was lead?

2) For finishing the scales I wanted to use epoxy by it has occurred to me that as I've already drilled the holes for the pins they may fill with epoxy which would then be problematic to re-drill (I don't have a press). Is this likely to be a problem? If so what alternates would be recommended?

All assistance greatly appreciated as this is my first attempt and I want the finished product to be capable of lasting a lifetime.

I assume you had someone else drill the holes… I can only say… if the epoxy fills the holes it may be a good thing, the epoxy will get into the wood fibers in the hole and help to make it stronger, and waterproof even if you re-drill the hole.

If you relay want to avoid re-drilling the holes then put a 1/16 inch pin in each hole before applying the epoxy (or any pin that will fit tight). When the epoxy cures simply use a pair of pliers, and with a twist gently remove each pin (of course you will use a pin long enough… lolol). The epoxy will not “stick” because of the smooth surface of the pin.

Oh and if the pins you use are long enough you could use them as the standoff for the scales while you pour the epoxy.

Hope this helps some.

I drilled the holes myself but without the aid of a press. I was worried that such a small diameter bit would get knocked off course by the epoxy filled hole as it would probably be harder than the original wood.

If there's no danger of the pins I use for support getting stuck in the holes then that sounds idea. Would it help of I rubbed a bit of oil on them before hand in order to aid removal?