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  1. #1
    Senior Member cassady's Avatar
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    Default another question on wash and etching

    Hey guys,

    I got lucky on an ebay auction lot -- really fuzzy picture, no description. I have taken a particular fancy to W&Bs, and I thought I recognized a Special, so I bid.



    I was right! One turned out to be a W&B special in really nice condition (middle). The one on top was a surprise (really fuzzy auction site photo). It is really striking -- a Romo Registered 'High Class,' with all sorts of gold wash, and a carved diamond spine.



    And the other I don't recognize, but it's a shoulderless with a barber's notch marked 'National Cutlery." Looks like it will clean up okay.



    Sorry for the blurry photos. Gotta get me a better camera.

    So here's the question: I have been cleaning up beat up razors (those which didn't need sanding, anyway) with Maas and a dremel buffing wheel. Obviously, the buffing wheel is out because of the etching and gold wash -- but can I use Maas (and elbow grease) to polish them up?

    I know that the Panglossian (best of all possible worlds) solution is to use a tumbler. Well, I haven't got one of those, nor do I plan to get one anytime soon. They're pretty clean, and I know they'll never approach the amazing stuff gsixx/glen gets with his tumbler, but what are other options?

    Oh, and I've never heard of a Romo (or National Cutlery). What's the word on them?

    cass.

    BTW, if it wasn't obvious, I'm not interested in collecting, just in shaving, so I ask only because I'm curious, not trying to guage resale value or anything.

  2. #2
    Senior Member blabbermouth ChrisL's Avatar
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    Very nice spine work on that razor. Speaking from my own experience; here's the good news: If you rub lightly for a short amount of time, checking as you go along with a soft cloth and Maas/Flitz over the gold wash, it won't come off. Here's the bad news: It will START to take it off right away in that the wash will lighten. The more you rub, the more it will fade. If you kept rubbing and rubbing, bye bye gold wash.

    Chris L
    "Blues fallin' down like hail." Robert Johnson
    "Aw, Pretty Boy, can't you show me nuthin but surrender?" Patti Smith

  3. #3
    Senior Member cassady's Avatar
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    Thanks Chris --

    In retrospect, I am wondering even if tumbling would work with gold wash. Anyone know?

    cass

  4. #4
    Plays with Fire C utz's Avatar
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    I've never used a tumbler either (would my clothes drier work?! Just kidding)

    Anyway, you could try to spot clean with the maas, but it would be a pain in the ass, and would most likely not look that great. Renaissance wax works well on gold plating (e.g. the gold platted Goldedge dubl duck tang), but no where near as well as Maas (which as you know will remove the gold).

    However, you can buy rub-on gold leafing from a craft store (I use a "Royal something or other" that is in a small, ~2" long, tube), and replace gold inlay (I mean when gold is in a deep etching, versus gold that is plated on a uniform/smooth surface). The one with the gold on the blade face looks to be gold in etching....this you could replace with the rub-on stuff. The spine looks to have gold on the high parts...if you were to clean that with maas as well, and used the rub-on gold, the gold would then be in the recesses.

    The rub on gold also works great if you want to make the tang stamp/writting gold as well.

    Good luck, and post those restored blades when you are done!!

    C utz

  5. #5
    Senior Member cassady's Avatar
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    Thanks, C utz!

    I will check that out -- what a cool idea, particularly for restores. I have seen gold leaf as it as it's applied to vehicles (like fire trucks, with the spirally look), but never thought of doing it on blades or on scales. I see a trip to the craft store, and some bling on my scales coming!

    cass

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