Thread: How to Restore Plastic Scales

I'm in the process of restoring a HESS 44. I've got the scales off, cleaned them, and gave them a good polishing with Flitz. This did wonders, but there are some very shallow surface scratches I'd like to sand and buff out. How high do you need to go with grit size before polishing? I've used 1500, then 2000 grit so far wet-sanding, followed by Flitz. It's better, but still not "wet-glossy" like the original! I know finer sandpaper is available----am I correct that I need to go much higher probably? My local NAPA Auto Parts store only had 1500 and 2000 grit, nothing higher, and that's all I've used so far. (followed by Flitz) This just doesn't get it "wet-shiny" like I'm aiming for. Thanks for any help!

First it depends on the type of plastic and how old it is. I have some yellow rouge I use and also cape cod polishing cloths are great however if you really have scratches in them then you have to go the sand paper route however to be perfectly honest you can spend hours on them or buy a new set of plastic scales for around 15 bucks or less.

If you've seen a Hess 44, you know why these scales are worth restoring!! They're not just a plain ol' chunk o' plastic. And this set is actually in nice shape, I'm just trying to bring them back up to the "wet-sheen" look. The inlay polished up beautifully with Flitz and a buffing wheel on my Dremel. Thanks to the guys who suggested that (I can't recall off hand)

Thought of trying something ment for polishing brass or another soft metal?

In Australia we have a product called Brasso that does well polishing CA AND taking minor scratches out of acrylic reading glasses

you can go higher grit with micromesh and then you can buff it with maas.

I use Meguiar's PLASTX and a soft cotton cloth. It does a great job and also polishes the inlays and pins. Using a Dremel w/ buff pad kicks it up a notch. Most auto parts stores carry it. Here's a link:

Meguiar's Direct PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish

I use semichrome. It's really a metal polish but it works wonders on vintage celluloid and many other plastics.

I use a popane soldering torch after 1000 grit. It's fast and works very well if done correctly.




Please do not use a soldering torch unless you have some practice under your belt. The idea is to smooth it, use intense heat for a split second so that the surface liquifies and resettles. If it gets too soft it will deform the piece and if it gets too hot it will bubble, blacken and eventually catch fire. This is a technique I learned from a guy who makes custom acrylic display cases for pricey department stores. It's the best way to get that almost illuminated look on the edge of colored plexiglass.