Thread: Solid Domed Washers (ala Vlad)- How To

I am reposting this information from one of Vlad's (Vladimir Schneider) old posts based on a Bill Ellis jig. Many people search for this and can't find it. I just happen to know exactly where it is lol. Anyway, my take on these domed washers is this: They are the best washers you can make if you want domed washers. They are the most stable and the most aesthetically pleasing. That being said they are pretty hard to do. The jig is a PITA to both make and to not have break over time (the bit has snapped off in the hole twice for me). Takes longer than normal and takes a lot more final finishing on them to get them to look really good but it can be well worth it. Anyway, here it is...

The jig is made from 1/2" steel rod available from local hardware store. I made one piece about 3" the other 1". This is almost identical to Bill Ellis' jig with the difference that it is all made from 1/2" rod and the post is NOT glued in. This allows it to be removed with the newly made washer and then tapped out of the washer.

1. Drill a 1/16" hole to a depth of about 1/4" to 3/8". Make sure the hole is vertical. Centering is not as critical. In one of the pieces drill out the washer shape using a 3/16" drill. Do it a little at a time so you don't make it too deep. (Pictures 1, 2 and 3)

2. Cut off the bottom of a 1/16" drill bit to use as a post. The two pieces should fit flush with the post in the holes. If not then shorten until they fit flush. (Picture 1)

3. I sanded down the faces by putting one of the rods in the drill press and skewering a folded a piece of sandpaper (so you get sanding action on both sides) on the post then sandwiching it with the other rod at the highest drill press speed. After a while the two faces were sanded smooth and flush. This was not really necessary since you will sand the washer anyway.

4. I place the longer piece in a small vise as in picture 4.

5. Insert the 1/16" post into a brass or copper 1/16" I.D. tube (pic 5) and cut about 1/10" by pressing a knife (I use a carpet knife) with a rolling action. After a few seconds the tube will be scored all the way through (pic 6). Pull out the post with the cut off tube (pic 7).

6. Place post into the rod (pic 8) and sandwich with the second. After a few taps with the hammer the rough washer is formed. (pic 9).

7. Take out the post with the washer and remove the washer. I place the two into pliers and tap out the rod with a hammer as in pic 10.

In Bill's original jig the post is glued into the rod this creates more handling and difficulties in removing the finished washer.

Finishing the washer requires sanding and polishing. I experimented with a few methods and finally lucked into this one.

1. Make a conical mandrell to fit the washer. My experimental version was ground from a small screw by placing it in a dremel and grinding it against a rough stone.

2. Place a newly minted washer on the conical post, seat firmly and grind off any of the post that sticks out. (pics 11, 12, 13 and 14).

Sanding & Polishing:

1. Place the conical mandrel into a dremel (pic 14).

2. Place a newly minted washer on the conical mandrell, a bit of pressure will firmly seat it (pic 15). Make sure it is well aligned otherwise it will sand lopsided.

2. At the lowest speed sand with 320, 600 and 1500 grit. I do it by pressing the sandpaper with my finger against the washer.

3. Dip the sanded washer lightly into polishing paste (any brass/copper polish will do) and press into a kleenex or paper towel to polish. Mirror finished washer in pic 16.

4. Newly minted washer back side is rough (pic 17). Sand it smooth by running it on sandpaper with your finger a few times (pic 18).

out of curiosity, has anybody tried using a brake line flare tool? know you know you stick the stainless line into the clamp, put the little mandrel in then tighten it all up, it flares the line. I've done it with copper making a line for my small compressor. I wonder if that could be done, then cut it off the tube? I'm not at a point where I'm trying these razors operations, but its an idea.

Red

This information also exists in the wiki
http://straightrazorpalace.com/srpwiki/index.php/Washer_die_%26_sanding_mandrel

I went about making one of these today and halfway through, I decided to take a shortcut. I made the die on a skinny 3/8 square bar of metal. I skipped the other half entirely. Here's what I've got going on and the first one I punched out.



That is a Lee case trimmer mandrel (for trimming firearms cartridges during loading--$3-4 through usual vendors such as MidwayUSA) that I'd broken off a couple months back. It's got a split thread on the back side that fits into a cutter (see the link below for a bigger picture of it). Half the thread had fatigued off when I was using it in a drill to trim cases, and I worked off the other part with a pair of pliers so I could get a clean tap against it with the hammer. The 1/16" pin is ultra-hard and the conical part you see doesn't come into play. This is a .308Win mandrel. I would think any caliber would work.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=798410

I don't know if it matters, but I figured it'd be appropriate to apply Imperial Case Wax (again, from my handloading stash) to the pin and the brass tube.

For 1/16" ID tube, what is the measurement on the outside of the tube? 3/16"? I have someone on ebay asking what outside diameter I need..