Thread: Demo for scales on the quick.

i did this a while back, but did not post. this was a restore for a red imp for a friend. i am not showing the blade, but wanted to do a quick overview on making the scales. from the point of the pic start, i have already de pinned.

pic 1= 2 pieces of 1/8" Wenge, double stick taped together. tracing the shape of the scale on the wood.

pic 2= the 1st cut of the scales showing side view. cutting both blanks together is so much easier.

pic 3= trace and 1st cut lines.

pic 4= final rough cut.

pic 5= drill pin holes together. again just easier than drilling after final shape.

pic 6= cutting the scales down on the bandsaw. this cuts the thickness down to about 3/32.

I'd like to try do that myself one day, the pictures are very helpful.

pic 7= the chopped down scales, placed in a vise, using a file to shape down and smoothen the edges. i do this to all sides to get the saw marks out.

pic 8= i also use this to really start smoothing edges using sanding blocks down from 60-320.

pic 9= final rough shape on the edges, not to smooth out the sides.

pic 10= since i do not have a sander yet, this is my one labor intensive step. however there is a lot of satisfaction from seeing shapes form out of your hard work.

pic 11= final shape and smoothness. Wenge is very porous and i like the detail of it. however it is also very oily, so have fun with finishes.

pic 12= razor pieced together prior to finsh and pinning. i always use microfasteners when test fitting. and i reused the original spacer to give some of the original piece back to the owner.



sorry, no pics of the finished project. my camera had issues, and i had to get it out before i could snap any. hope this helps anyone wanting to redo scales.

vgod

Vgod,
Thanks for the pics and post on making new scales. I've been reading a lot on that as I think I would enjoy it for a hobby. I have a few questions and would appreciate your input (and others as well). I noticed you used the 3M abrasive sponges - how well do they work compared to normal sand paper? Are there any benefits or problems with these? Also, you mentioned that wenge is an oily wood, what are some species of wood that are good for beginners to work with?

Thanks for your help,
BJ

Thanks for the informative pics!

I have a few stupid questions:

After you use the double sided tape and have both scales stuck together, why do you rip them on the bandsaw? I've never used that tape; does it bond the wood so well that you can't pry them apart? Or, is it safer ripping them rather than pulling them apart to avoid cracking the wood?

I'm working on a pair of buffalo horn scales to replace some broken (by me) Red Injun 101 scales. I thought about sanding the inside faces of the scales flat, taping them and keeping both scales taped together during the sanding/shaping process. I'm hoping it will make it easier to judge symmetry. What are your suggestions on keeping the scales taped together through the shaping process? Rather than a flat scale surface with rounded edges which would be easier for me, I'm being ambitious and going for a rounded scale surface to mimic the 101's scale surface arc.

Thanks Vgod!

Chris L

i love the sanding blocks. they have always served me well. easy to hold, good size, and the cheap ones from walmart work great. i find that they last a long time also. the ony negatives are that they don't go up very high in grit, they do not allow a lot of pressure due to the sponginess, and they are easy to put holes and tears in (this is more from user error than bad materials.)

i like them because they are great for all sorts of projects. however i have sandpaper in all grits and use them just as much.

wenge is oily, porous, and splinters super easily. i never try to get an absolute smooth finish with it. that is part of the character. if you are experimenting, oak types are easy and cheap and you can get it anywear. craftstores sell them in usable planks. zebrawood and bocote are not to bad either from my experience. ask around at a local wood store, or do some searches on wood types you are interested in using. you can find all the pros and cons.

good luck.

vgod

Originally Posted by BJC

Vgod,
Thanks for the pics and post on making new scales. I've been reading a lot on that as I think I would enjoy it for a hobby. I have a few questions and would appreciate your input (and others as well). I noticed you used the 3M abrasive sponges - how well do they work compared to normal sand paper? Are there any benefits or problems with these? Also, you mentioned that wenge is an oily wood, what are some species of wood that are good for beginners to work with?

Thanks for your help,
BJ

these are 1/8" blanks. i rip them down to about 3/32" on the bandsaw. this is pretty darn close to the scales that come on most of my razors, ie: original.

the double side tape is easy to use, the saw rips through it, and the blanks peel apart easily. stick a box cutter blade between them and work them apart. the downside is the leftover residue, however i always sand down the inside anyway so no issues. and i usually put one piece on each end, and one in the middle. not the entire length.

once i tape them, i do all my shaping taped. this helps so much with symetry from my 1st 'experiments'. i have not worked with horn or bone, so i don't know of how well the tape will stick. i clean the wood with mineral spirits or acetone prior to sticking the tape down. just make sure you have a flat piece. that is the beauty of the 1/8" blanks. you have a flattened surface to start with.

thanks for the comments.

good luck.

vgod

Originally Posted by Chris L

Thanks for the informative pics!

I have a few stupid questions:

After you use the double sided tape and have both scales stuck together, why do you rip them on the bandsaw? I've never used that tape; does it bond the wood so well that you can't pry them apart? Or, is it safer ripping them rather than pulling them apart to avoid cracking the wood?

I'm working on a pair of buffalo horn scales to replace some broken (by me) Red Injun 101 scales. I thought about sanding the inside faces of the scales flat, taping them and keeping both scales taped together during the sanding/shaping process. I'm hoping it will make it easier to judge symmetry. What are your suggestions on keeping the scales taped together through the shaping process? Rather than a flat scale surface with rounded edges which would be easier for me, I'm being ambitious and going for a rounded scale surface to mimic the 101's scale surface arc.

Thanks Vgod!

Chris L