Results 1 to 10 of 22
Thread: My First Full Restoration
-
12-12-2008, 01:25 AM #1
- Join Date
- Sep 2008
- Location
- Yonkers, NY however, born and raised in Moultrie,GA!
- Posts
- 554
Thanked: 151My First Full Restoration
Take a look at this. I know its not much but this old Hibbard Spencer was deeply pitted and rusty to the point it was black all over. I should have taken its original picture but I havent found it yet. I managed to get it this far. THe scales are the first I have ever made. The sanding went on and off for about two weeks and many sheets of paper. I then honed it with an Arkansas Oil stone to set a bevel, then 250 laps on the NOrton 4K then 500 Laps on the 8K side since Old School commented that doubling the strokes usually works for honing. I know there are some stains on the blade and there was an imperfection where I pressed on the hone, but overall it shaves as well as my pre-ordered shave ready DOVO. I also know there are some very small pits I couldnt get out close to the tang, but you have to look hard to see them. The scales are just plain old red oak with a walnut stain. LEt me know what you think as this is my first full restoration and with the purchase of my new Craftsman Drill Press and a Dremel Scroll saw I want to be a professional at this within a few years. I know form the ads and from the forums that this site demands perfection, just please help me get to that point with good criticism.
-
12-12-2008, 02:01 AM #2
It looks nice, what grit did you finish on the blade? And the scales are simple, i like it.
-
The Following User Says Thank You to The Dude For This Useful Post:
treydampier (12-12-2008)
-
12-12-2008, 03:12 AM #3
Nice job! You must have a lot of patience to take a blade from oxidized to that condition with hand sanding.
Did you shape the scales freehand or did you use a pattern? I ask because the shape reminds me of some I really like - scales on the "Easy Aces" razor. Either way, they're pretty neat.
-
The Following User Says Thank You to mrbhagwan For This Useful Post:
treydampier (12-12-2008)
-
12-12-2008, 03:22 AM #4
- Join Date
- Sep 2008
- Location
- Yonkers, NY however, born and raised in Moultrie,GA!
- Posts
- 554
Thanked: 151Its actually a combinaton of both. I free handed the ponted ends but on the other end I used a small Salamander scale to make the curves then just widened it by moving the template scale up and down. But I am afriad I didnt purely free hand it. I actually hope to start making sets wth bolsters at some point and may add some to this set when I have time.
-
12-12-2008, 05:56 AM #5
I'll offer some nit picking critique seeing you asked but I'll say this. As a first restore & from your ' before' description looks like you did a great job & you were rewarded with a great shave. That's what it's all about.
The blade seems proportionately small for the scales, but it may just be the pic angle or my lousy eyes.
I would also round off that pointy spur you have honed on the heel. The blade is worn & the rear flange just needs a little shaping to compensate.
As far as honing goes, 500 strokes does seem excessive but hell what would I know ? I use an 8" grinder for chip removal.The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.
-
The Following User Says Thank You to onimaru55 For This Useful Post:
treydampier (12-12-2008)
-
12-12-2008, 11:15 AM #6
- Join Date
- Sep 2008
- Location
- Yonkers, NY however, born and raised in Moultrie,GA!
- Posts
- 554
Thanked: 151I agree the scales are large and I may switch the blade out. I think what happened is that I was so concerned about cutting too much that I made them too large. As for the burt, I will grind it off and smooth it. There is a lot of wear on this blade and it took a lot of strokes to get it to cut butter, I judy wanted it sharp. Thanks for the post and I will follow up.
-
12-12-2008, 12:48 PM #7
-
The Following User Says Thank You to Ron Gallant For This Useful Post:
treydampier (12-12-2008)
-
12-12-2008, 01:49 PM #8
The finish of the blade looks good, but needs polishing.
I use a dremel with a small felt wheel to do this, with chromium oxide polishing compound. This is sold in brick sized pieces in many hardware stores for polishing steel on a buffer wheel. It doesn't cost much.
Half an hour to an hour of careful buffing at 5000 rpm will get rid of all those faint scratch lines, and put a really deep mirror polish on the blade.Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day
-
The Following User Says Thank You to Bruno For This Useful Post:
treydampier (12-12-2008)
-
12-12-2008, 02:46 PM #9
I admire your persistence! Hand sanding is not for the impatient
Have you shaved with the razor yet? What did you think?Find me on SRP's official chat in ##srp on Freenode. Link is at top of SRP's homepage
-
The Following User Says Thank You to hoglahoo For This Useful Post:
treydampier (12-12-2008)
-
12-12-2008, 05:19 PM #10
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Location
- North Idaho Redoubt
- Posts
- 27,053
- Blog Entries
- 1
Thanked: 13249Trey:
You asked so I am going to make a couple of comments/questions/hints
The wedge??? I can't see to well in the pic but it looks more to be a straight spacer rather then an actual wedge shape...
In the close up of the pivot end of the razor there looks to be a slight chip in the wood ???? again could just be the pic...
The deep graining in Oak is tuff to seal and pics always make it look way worse than it really is in real life... Any wood that has this type of graining really benefits from what is called glass burnishing and for razor scales nothing beats a heavy thick shot glass for smoothing up the grain before the first coat of finish... Let that dry completely 48 hours then sand again with 1500-2000 grit sandpaper leaving only the grain filled with finish, re-burnish and then you have a super smooth surface to complete the final finishing on...
BTW the pins look really good great job there, and the blade came out really nice, as Bruno said you could take it to mirror or leave it this way as a working blade...
Just so ya know everyone's first scales are almost always a little large, it is just safer that way.... easier to remove some, harder to add that wood back..
Great workLast edited by gssixgun; 12-12-2008 at 06:01 PM.
-
The Following User Says Thank You to gssixgun For This Useful Post:
treydampier (12-12-2008)