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Thread: Where to find Chrome Ox?
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12-30-2008, 03:49 AM #1
Yes I still have some of the .5 micron pure chromium oxide powder left in the small packets. Mine has always been sold and used for honing though. I guess you could try dipping the ends of a dry felt bob into the powder and dremel polish that way but I've never tried it.
The ad is still in the classifieds I believe, but it's probably buried quite a way back.
Chris L"Blues fallin' down like hail." Robert Johnson
"Aw, Pretty Boy, can't you show me nuthin but surrender?" Patti Smith
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12-30-2008, 04:14 AM #2
I did not realize Chris L still had those little packets available. You can’t beat his deal with a stick. For Dremel type polishing you can get final finishing compound sticks at Lowes. I don’t know what it’s abrasive component is, doubt it is CrOx, but it will put a near mirror finish on your blades. It’s in the tool section, about $3.
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The Following User Says Thank You to kahunamoose For This Useful Post:
ChrisL (12-30-2008)
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12-31-2008, 03:39 AM #3
Thanks for the help. In the next few days I'll have a chance to order some to make my razors shine!
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12-31-2008, 11:44 PM #4
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01-01-2009, 01:42 AM #5
I’m assuming it’s the hard stick/cake type of stuff. Use a small felt disk, start your tool at low speed, grind into the stick to load abrasive on the felt. About 1 second’s worth is all you want. No water involved. Should be fine on your razor, buff a little on the spine to make sure and to get a feel for what it will/will not do. Recharge the abrasive whenever you feel the need as you are buffing. If you are getting black residue on the blade you are using too much abrasive. Dremels and other rotary grinding tools have a love/hate following here, mostly hate. Yes, you can really clean up a blade fast and get that mirror finish if you are super anally careful. Very nice. BUT – you can destroy a blade far easier. It is very easy to overheat a blade and lose the temper/hardness of the steel. This is especially true on the thin cutting edge of the blade. We are talking seconds here. Buff for only a moment at a time, moving to a new spot constantly. Go back many times verses doing the same place till it shines. The bigger danger is catching an edge and snapping off a chunk of your razor. Common sense tells you the rotation of the felt pad needs to be from the middle of the razor to sweep off the side or end of the blade. Most of the time this works, but occasionally you will still not roll off the razor quickly and cleanly. Something will catch and your spinning edge will pull the blade onto itself at an extreme angle. This generally occurs coming off the sharp business edge. You thought you were being soooo careful, then you hear ZING, feel the blade ripped from your fingers, and see a half inch of steel missing. Blade destroyed, hopefully same cannot be said of one’s eyes or fingers. And this is all if you got your stuff together. Seems like most people decide that hand sanding is much less dangerous , both physically and fiscally. So, good luck, just be very careful.
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01-02-2009, 02:19 AM #6
I just found the green .5 micron sticks of Chromium Oxide at my local WoodCraft store in the aisle with the hones. They sell it as micro fine honing compound. In the store the packaging does not have the grit size but their website Buy Green Chrome Oxide Compound, 6 oz., Green Chrome Oxide Compound, Buffing lists it at .5 micron. I used a cheese grater and some neatsfoot oil to make a paste for my paddle strop. But the item is intended to be used on a slow buffer.
Sean
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01-02-2009, 02:24 AM #7
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Thanked: 2204The Woodcraft stuff is not as fine as that from Japaneseknifesharpening.com. FWIW
Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin
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The Following User Says Thank You to randydance062449 For This Useful Post:
Purvis (01-05-2009)
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01-05-2009, 04:27 PM #8
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01-02-2009, 02:25 AM #9
Boo for that stuff! See my thread on why the waxy bars are not good for straight razor use.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/basic...-bars-not.html
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01-02-2009, 10:30 PM #10
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Thanked: 1CrO source
Any lapidary (rock polishing) supply will have it, usually in liquid form. It's commonly used on minerals that are bad for undercutting, like jade