Thread: Any easier way to remove pitting?

Originally Posted by Philadelph

Even if you reground it- if you wanted it looking good I'd say you'd lose some of that stamping on the blade "silver combined with...". The point is gone too. More space behind the notch than in front of it. This (along with the bad hone wear) tells me that this blade was once 8/8 or bigger where as now it looks 6/8, 7/8 at best (not at the toe!). I'd do a major overhaul if I were you and had the time/patience/money.

Good point. I'll see how much of the markings I can retail while still getting the pitting out. I guess I'll have to shorten the tip too. Damn, was hoping to not get too excessive. Keep it smiling edge (albiet less pronounced), or go flat.

Originally Posted by TheContinentalOp

Well, tossing it out isn't an option, so I'll just keep it around and sand on it from time to time I guess, until I get fed up enough to live with its final state

I feel your pain. I've spent soooo many hours hand sanding, and I'm sure that others here have done 10x as much (I'm still relatively new).


This one had me walking away for weeks at a time. It was really 4+ hours just at 60 grit, not including breaks. Just put it aside for a bit, then when you have more free time and inspiration, have at it again for a while.

I assume that you're read the "hand-sanding how to" thread (by Bruno?). If not, it's well worth the read. Using a jig and a sanding block will make the process much easier on your hands.

Hey, a local! WOW, just WOW, that work is amazing. I may want to pick your brain about your setup since you are local. Where you at in Tempe? I'm in a historic district over by the Phx country club. You getting your scale material local?

Originally Posted by TheContinentalOp

Good point. I'll see how much of the markings I can retail while still getting the pitting out. I guess I'll have to shorten the tip too. Damn, was hoping to not get too excessive. Keep it smiling edge (albiet less pronounced), or go flat.

why would you shorten the tip???
definitely keep the curve to the edge - it's already looking a bit freakish to me from too much of the steel gone, if you straighten the edge i'll officially consider it one of the ugliest razors.
i'd live with the pitting,

Personally I like it with the pitting, it looks like an old blade and the pitting gives it caracter.

I buff the heck out of the pitting using a felt tip on a flex shaft grinding tool. Use a fairly coarse grade buffing compound, clean up with a so called fine finishing grade compound. Hit it from all different angles. Usually this seems to give me a mirror finish deep down into the pitting. It is sort of stupid, but I like the look, maybe it just helps me rationalize the pitting as character enhancement instead of defect. I only bother If I have a blade that I like and the pitting is localized on the thicker spine areas of the blade. Naturally if the rot is in the business edge it is dangerous to buff hard and will probably just come back anyhow. Any collector value is totally flushed down the tubes, of course. Purists will also sneer at me. That too is OK since I get to have the actual shaving experience without paying a fortune.

"Yep, using Aluminum oxide, and even at that, it seems to loose all "cutting" ability after 30-seconds or so. "

Well I don't know if it's semantics or what but silicon carbide wetndri works better & lasts longer for me.

After having restored several Wade&Butchers, I can say they are worth the effort-BUT put the effort into honing. Let's face it-do you want to look at it? Or would you rather shave with it?

I use a pneumatic die grinder with a scotch-brite pad.And then buff out the swirl marks with diamond paste. You have to be comfortable working with high speed tools WAY before you attempt to work near a razor's edge.Remember, it is at LEAST 100 years old. Its not supposed to look new

Unless you plan on having it reground by someone with the skills and equipment to do it right- I'd live with some of the "Patina"-hone it up and SHAVE.

Originally Posted by flyboy

Personally I like it with the pitting, it looks like an old blade and the pitting gives it caracter.

+1 with Flyboy, remember it is an old blade. If the pitting on my face is the same when I'm that age, I'll be well pleased.......

Originally Posted by TheContinentalOp

Hey, a local! WOW, just WOW, that work is amazing. I may want to pick your brain about your setup since you are local. Where you at in Tempe? I'm in a historic district over by the Phx country club. You getting your scale material local?

Thanks. I'm at Apache just past the 101, and work at university & mill.
I've gotten all of the wood I've used from woodcraft in Chandler, with the exception of the burl, that I ordered from bell forest products.
I got all of my hones at woodcraft too. If you haven't been there yet it'll be fun just to poke around there for a bit.

I posted in the meetings forum to try to get a PHX ares meet going. Hopefully we can get a few of us together to talk straights and techniques. Feel free to PM me with any other questions.

On topic, I think I'm with the others on just leaving the pitting that's left. It's still going to be quite the project to make, fit and finish the scales. Then the honing. Once you've finished that one and a few others, you'll have a better idea of what's involved, and it'll be easier to go back and finish this one if you're not happy with it.

I hope that helps.