Thread: Any easier way to remove pitting?

Hey, a local! WOW, just WOW, that work is amazing. I may want to pick your brain about your setup since you are local. Where you at in Tempe? I'm in a historic district over by the Phx country club. You getting your scale material local?

Originally Posted by TheContinentalOp

Hey, a local! WOW, just WOW, that work is amazing. I may want to pick your brain about your setup since you are local. Where you at in Tempe? I'm in a historic district over by the Phx country club. You getting your scale material local?

Thanks. I'm at Apache just past the 101, and work at university & mill.
I've gotten all of the wood I've used from woodcraft in Chandler, with the exception of the burl, that I ordered from bell forest products.
I got all of my hones at woodcraft too. If you haven't been there yet it'll be fun just to poke around there for a bit.

I posted in the meetings forum to try to get a PHX ares meet going. Hopefully we can get a few of us together to talk straights and techniques. Feel free to PM me with any other questions.

On topic, I think I'm with the others on just leaving the pitting that's left. It's still going to be quite the project to make, fit and finish the scales. Then the honing. Once you've finished that one and a few others, you'll have a better idea of what's involved, and it'll be easier to go back and finish this one if you're not happy with it.

I hope that helps.

I agree with Gugi that acid is an extremly bad idea and very dangerous made even worse by heating it!!!!!!!!!

I also agree with Gugi about leaving the pitting where it is due to it's depth. If youregrind the blade it will change the shaving characteristics a lot. I prefer to experience the blades\shaves in as original a configuration as I can based on how I received it. Most every blade I have that was used was in use longer that my experience with straights and I would like to shave with it in that configuration with few exceptions, like frowns. If the pitting bothers you get some MAAS and a tooth brush and have at the pits. It will not remove the pits but will remove the black in the pits. DO NOT USE ACID!!

#1 when hand sanding USE SOMETHING TO BACK THE SANDPAPER!

Your fingers are too squishy to apply effective pressure of the abrasive to the metal. I use a square or rectangle of 1/4" thick leather to back the sandpaper. It has enough give to conform to the curve of the blade, but applies even pressure to a wider area than your fingers do.

I sometimes use it flat, but usually I take a strip of sandpaper and fold the leather over double. This leaves a fairly tightly radiused curve to sand with, and also gives you a bit of a "handle" to grip the two ends of the folded over leather.

Its not an answer to your question, but I'd leave it or scrap it all together. To much sanding wears down everything real funny like and then you get a wavy bevel and a wavy edge when you hone.

Save your efforts for something better.

My two cents.


Mark

Originally Posted by 0o.Mark.o0

Its not an answer to your question, but I'd leave it or scrap it all together. To much sanding wears down everything real funny like and then you get a wavy bevel and a wavy edge when you hone.

Save your efforts for something better.

My two cents.


Mark

With all due respect:



NO WAY!!!!

That old W&B will shave like a champ once it's honed up. As said by others, if you just want to shine it up and leave the pitting, then by all means do so. It will still shave great.

Originally Posted by Seraphim

With all due respect:



NO WAY!!!!

That old W&B will shave like a champ once it's honed up. As said by others, if you just want to shine it up and leave the pitting, then by all means do so. It will still shave great.

+1

Definitely reviving an old thread, but I was digging through the old files and saw fellow Arizonans! Just saying hi.

What'd you do with the butcher btw?

I sure am glad you beat me on this one.

When shined up it will look good. The clean and shiny pits will give great character.

Good Luck