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Thread: Maher and Groshe 6/8 Notched
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01-24-2009, 04:05 PM #11
This may be helpful & the table should let you assess the merits of each finish.
Wood finishing - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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01-24-2009, 07:15 PM #12
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It is not only the finish that creates the deep grains of the wood to show through, it is actually more of the wood prep that creates that...
Sanding and burnishing the wood before the first coat of finish is more important then the finish you chose IMHO and experience...
If the wood is sealed it should not warp, again the prep helps in this, if done right the wood should almost be glass smooth before the first coat of finish....
The other way to make sure is what Alex was talking about by putting on one or two coats of finish then sanding down from there, and than doing a final finish....Last edited by gssixgun; 01-24-2009 at 07:18 PM.
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01-25-2009, 12:34 AM #13
Big +1 on what glen said about prep.
Danish oil is a hybrid oil that sets faster than boiled linseed oil and requires less coats than tung oil, it also may have wax in it IIRC. Oil finishes are easy to do but hard to perfect and require re-oiling the piece once or more a year to preserve the water resistance. Filling is not done the conventional way, but rather by applying the first coat or two with fine sandpaper to fill the pores (makes a dust/oil slurry that hardens in the pores). There is a wealth of info on the net and probably at your local library on oil finishes. Oil will give you the natural look, but I suggest you slow down a bit and practice on scrap.
Haste is your worst enemy in razor restoration and indeed any workshop project. Poor results, wasted materials and injuries can result, as well as much less pride in the finished product. Perhaps the oil finishes will slow you down a bit, they often take a week or more to complete properly.
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01-25-2009, 01:10 AM #14
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