Thread: Chip on PUMA razor - assessment

Hi Guys,

So over the holidays i regretably lent my razor to a relative who forgot their shaving stuff, and after getting it back i noticed a dent on the tip of the blade. Who knows how it got there but anyway, after i tried to clean it up the dent snapped off and these pictures are what i'm left with. I basically tried to round it off a bit as the chip was a bit jaggard at first. What i'm wondering is whether i should try and make it any better? I have been using it with no trouble so far but thought i should ask you guys what you would do? Would you use this as an excuse to buy a new razor (vintage probably)

thanks guys

orfeo

Yep, you'll have to get another i'm afraid. That'll hone out no problems, you'll never see where it was, it won't affect the shave it gives in any way & it'll be good as new, but deep down you'll know it was there. I can't see any way round but to pick up another!

It’s not so bad, you can use 600 to 1K grit sandpaper on a flat surface and carefully grind away the tip to re-shape the point (not the edge) to match the heal side curve.


Remember that part of the blade is very thin and will grind away quickly so don’t just grind it flat… grind to shape a semicircle.
Do not grind sideways, the blade may snap or the chip may develop into a crack.

Hold the spine like you hold a panicle (edge away from your grip) and the tang tilted forward and grind the tip on the sandpaper like you are writing (not drawing) a many vertical lines, then stop when the chip is gone. When you are done you may not have to re-hone.

…and in exactly 3 days you wont remember it was ever there.

Hope this helps

No hone it out.
Shorten the tip just a little with a dremel!

Use sandpaper, it is easy to make a mistake with a Dremel.

Just my $.02,

Originally Posted by smythe

It’s not so bad, you can use 600 to 1K grit sandpaper on a flat surface and carefully grind away the tip to re-shape the point (not the edge) to match the heal side curve.


Remember that part of the blade is very thin and will grind away quickly so don’t just grind it flat… grind to shape a semicircle.
Do not grind sideways, the blade may snap or the chip may develop into a crack.

Hold the spine like you hold a panicle (edge away from your grip) and the tang tilted forward and grind the tip on the sandpaper like you are writing (not drawing) a many vertical lines, then stop when the chip is gone. When you are done you may not have to re-hone.

…and in exactly 3 days you wont remember it was ever there.

Hope this helps

+1 . Losing minor razor length is always more desirable & an easier fix than honing the whole edge.

BTW I would never lend my Puma to anybody. You definitely need another razor for lend outs

Just to illustrate what I explained above, if you look at the first photo of before and after illustration, you grind along the red semicircular line. You can draw the line on your razor with a marker.

The second photo shows the series of the stroke and how I would hold the razor to grind the tip. This is only one way to do it, you could modify the stroke as you see fit… just remember the thicker part will cut much slower than the edge so you use more pressure the beginning of the stroke and much less at you get to the edge.

BTW In my above post I suggested 600 grit, but you may want to use lower grit paper like 220 and then smooth it with 600… this makes life easier. You could also use a sharpening stone

You could use a Dremel with the drum but the Dremel is “clumsy” and you are bound to cut or burn something you didn’t want to.

Nice illustrations, Smythe. And nice pictures for those that have not yet had to round a toe to fix a chipped edge. (I hate when that happens).

Chris L

It'll hone out, no need that I can see for major reconstruction.

Originally Posted by Chris L

Nice illustrations, Smythe. And nice pictures for those that have not yet had to round a toe to fix a chipped edge. (I hate when that happens).

Chris L

+1 great illustrations, I wish I could figure out how to do those

I think it is still going to need to touch the hones after though....