Thread: Help with pinning?

I've read the what I could find on the wiki. I've downloaded and read the .pdf from the Help Files...but I'm missing something?

Let me first explain that I did not expect miracles. I'm saving the pictures for the my first "completion" but I've gotten a Genco Goldseal and Shumate blade cleaned up to my liking. (Not "TRUE" mirror...as least by my standards but definitely "clean" and aesthetically pleasing. ...but that's another thread) Made a set of scales out of clear Lexan that I then 'frosted' with 600grit paper. Things were going good. I was getting excited. No drill press...free-handed it. That was my first mistake...but the results were passable. No washers. I"m waiting on my order from microfasteners. (Like I said, I wasn't expecting miracles!) I got my 1/16" brass rod from a R/C hobby shop. I THINK it's actual brass as it is the same material all the way through and doesn not throw a spark. WHEN I WENT TO TAPPING NOTHING MOVED/FLATTEN/SMASHED/SMOOSHED! When I went to whacking...the rod bent. Can't say I didn't know better, but

So am I just not being patient enough and should expect to sit down, get comfortable and tap awhile? Do I have the wrong type of rod? I was using a 14oz hammer and an old axe head for an anvil...so I was quite the opposite of under-gunned for the project! Am I just expecting to much moving/flattening/smashing and smooshing? The pins did hold in the Lexan...not just from the bend in the rod.

My best guess is that I'm just expecting too much, and leaving the pins too long. Combine that with extra "grip" the washers would give to the rod on the scales and I think my problems may disapear.

But you are the guys in the know.


BTW, the I was quite enamoured by the "cloudy" cleare Lexan and brass wedge I made from key stock. I thought it looked great, and was fitting, for a blade named Goldseal but it balanced horribley. The short 5/8 blade can't take all that brass as the end of the handle. May try a large, and much thinner, brass washer for the my next wedge source.

As always,

Thanks

First you need to be picky about what brass you happen to use, some brass rod and nails are work hardened so it does not peen as easy....(annealing it works)
I order mine through a knife supply place online to make sure... Many hardware stores have a display of brass and the name on the display will be Koss that is good stuff also...
14oz is not only to big but the ball is to large to peen something that small 2oz maybe 4oz is what works the best

To peen a rod to lock on just a scale without a washer or a bolster is the hardest one to do, and of course that is what you started with...

I am sure since you read and watched the wiki stuff you did file the rod before you even tried ??? I cannot stress how important that is to a good peen...

I would not even attempt to peen a razor until you have done at least a few practice ones on just scrap wood to test the way it all works....

Hope this helped a little....

We have a saying we came up with in the restore chat sometime back....

"Rush a Restore - Wreck a Razor" Take it slower...........

+1 on annealing it - just heat the brass rod to red hot and let cool. It will be easier to work with then - much softer.

Regards,
Neil

I agree, anneal, use a much smaller hammer and get comfortable. Billy Ellis states that you can judge how hard to hit a pin is about as hard as your willing to constantly hit your own finger. Peen by tapping around the top of the pin not dead on. Try to think of forming a little doom on top of the pin with the edges forming a neat little edge that will hold things in place.

the only other thing is to keep the taps with the hammer light just a little harder than it takes to break a egg shell then you wont have the bent rod problem.

I have a question on the brass used. I am not by any means a pro at this. I bought some brass nails that were not annealed and it took a little longer to peen but the results were very good. I got a set of scales that were very tight and they seemed to stay that way.


Thanks,
Richard

I've got used to not annealing mine. Works fine.

Regards,
Neil

Yes, I'll try annealing it...didn't even think of that since I wasn't in "steel" mode.

The more I think about it the more I'm sure I also left the pins too long.
I did not "file" the pins but I did even them up with a 120grit belt. (the only one I have for the sander until my order from Lee Valley comes in.)

I'm certainly rushing things, but I'm doing so knowing that there will be a learning curve. To be honest the whole mess turned out better than I expected. I had not however considered the risk of ruining an otherwise fine blade. I will be much careful about the risks I take from here out.


All go back to just working on the blades and handles SEPERATE until the rest of my goodies come in.



Thanks.