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Thread: Broken Scale

  1. #11
    Senior Member Truckman's Avatar
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    Thanks again for all the help and suggestions. I've been working nights the last few days, so I haven't had any time to mess with it. I'll see what I can do with it over the weekend.


    Any ideas on how to clean the blade without marring the etching? Would a high grit (800? 1000?) work on removing some of the black stuff on the blade? What is that stuff called, anyway? IIRC, it's actually raised on top of the blade.

  2. #12
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    See this thread here and note what Glen says down page. If it was me I would remove the pin and use the method Glen recommended with the thin backing. I might try to epoxy it on wax paper so it wouldn't stick.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

  3. #13
    Senior Member Truckman's Avatar
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    Thanks Jimmy.

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    To DogHair you can clean up a sloppy glue joint by sanding it down level and then to a high grit (like 1000) and polishing it.

  5. #15
    Senior Member DogHair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AaronX View Post
    To DogHair you can clean up a sloppy glue joint by sanding it down level and then to a high grit (like 1000) and polishing it.
    Thanks. I've been afraid to mess with it incase it breaks again. Maybe I'll try the sanding and polish.

  6. #16
    Senior Member kenneyty's Avatar
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    Hmm- has anyone ever tried MEK (that's Methyl Ethyl Keytone or something close to that) to repair scales? It's nasty stuff, but does a great job on styrene, and I don't believe would damage the metal. I'm not at all sure how it would work on celluloid or bakelyte, but it's beautiful for thermoplastics.
    If you painted a little on each edge to be bonded with an old brush, then squeezed em together for 30 seconds, it might re-melt the plastic together.
    I wouldn't try it unless someone else can comment...

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