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  1. #1
    Cream Huffer
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    Default Preparing wood for finishing

    I am working on my first set of wood scales. Some nice walnut for a Dubl Duck. Previously I have only worked with Micarta. Was wondering what steps I need to do before applying a finish (was thinking of using CA) so that my scales turn out as good as possible.

    The scales have already been sanded to 600 grit.

    Do I need to rub down the scales with Acetone? Can I use fingernail polish remover for this step, or do I need straight acetone?

  2. #2
    Senior Member floppyshoes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dnjrboy View Post
    I am working on my first set of wood scales. Some nice walnut for a Dubl Duck. Previously I have only worked with Micarta. Was wondering what steps I need to do before applying a finish (was thinking of using CA) so that my scales turn out as good as possible.

    The scales have already been sanded to 600 grit.

    Do I need to rub down the scales with Acetone? Can I use fingernail polish remover for this step, or do I need straight acetone?

    Don't use nail polish remover for this type of thing, it often contains oils and stuff to "feed" the nails. These oils can interfere with many finishes. An acetone soak or rub is often a good idea, but generally not necessary, especially with relatively "dry" woods like walnut. By dry I mean with respect to oils.

    Personally, I sand to about 400 grit, then rub with acetone/water mix (about 3:1 acetone to water) to clean and raise the grain. Then I sand the grain down with 400 and apply a wash coat of finish before staining, filling or whatever else is desired.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Soilarch's Avatar
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    I'll second the advise on using water or steam to "raise" the grain. On little stuff like this (just recently razor scales) I get pretty anal about final sanding/polishing. Sand, wet, sand, wet.

    Then, depending on what you use to finish it with...if it needs to dry between coats....LET IT DRY!!! If it's dry to the touch that doesn't mean anything. Leave for 24hr minimum until you get very familiar with whatever products your using. Even then realize that humidity levels and room temperature can change drying time considerably! If you push the envelope and sand too soon it'll be like trying to sand tree sap. It'll gum up, cloud up, dirty up....and the easiest thing to do is just wait till it dries (what you should've done anyways) and then take it all off and start from scratch. Sometimes 24hr isn't even enough...especially if you put on a thick coat. 10 light coats will likely go just as fast as 4 heavy coats if they are both don't properly...and it's likely to look better as well.


    Sorry the rant-like tone. But I've learned that the hard. Several times.

    Save yourself a LOT of frustration.

  4. #4
    Cream Huffer
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    No worries on the tone. There is a reason that I ask, I would prefer to learn from others mistake. I'm sure I'll make my own, but it would be nice to make fewer than I really have to.

  5. #5
    Senior Member 0o.Mark.o0's Avatar
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    I've had good luck so far (with the one and only oak scale I've made) by giving it a rough sand only. Sanding parallel leaves no scratch marks perpendicular to the grain of the wood leaves a 3D effect that the light plays around with through the CA coat.

    My 2 cents. And I'd be curious to see if anyone else does this too.

    Mark

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