Results 1 to 10 of 11
Thread: How To: Unpinning Video
-
02-12-2009, 05:45 AM #1
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Location
- Fort Wayne, IN
- Posts
- 141
Thanked: 56How To: Unpinning Video
Ok be kind to my PIII server please It's all hosted on my box in the closet... hopefully it can handle the traffic.
Razor Restorations
comments welcome.
-
The Following 13 Users Say Thank You to AaronX For This Useful Post:
bpave777 (02-13-2009), Buckler (03-12-2009), Denno (02-12-2009), durdensbuddy (02-14-2009), FastEdge (02-15-2009), FloorPizza (02-13-2009), Jimbo (02-12-2009), MaillerPhong (02-14-2009), netsplit (02-12-2009), Rajagra (02-12-2009), Raudrive (02-15-2009), Slartibartfast (05-18-2009), sparq (02-12-2009)
-
02-12-2009, 08:12 AM #2
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Posts
- 7
Thanked: 0Watching now, looks good. Thanks for this.
-
02-12-2009, 08:19 AM #3
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Posts
- 79
Thanked: 6Real good video!
-
02-12-2009, 12:03 PM #4
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
- Location
- Adelaide Australia
- Posts
- 72
Thanked: 6Great video,
Did a fair bit of buffering for me, but that could be my connection,
I love the eye protection =)
Thanks for the great vid
-
02-12-2009, 01:28 PM #5
Nicely done. I do the drill press method; however. I use a block of wood under the razor to help prevent damage to the scales. I also will level the razor so that the pin is vertically in line with the bit. I also use thread cutting oil on the pin to keep from heating up the pin thus prevent melting any scale material.
-
02-12-2009, 02:03 PM #6
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Location
- Fort Wayne, IN
- Posts
- 141
Thanked: 56Hey Ken thanks for weighing in. The block of wood is a good idea but I've never really noticed any damage. The leveling of the razor seems a bit overkill as you just want to drill the washer off and not actually go into the scales. I also avoid the need for cutting oil by using the slowest speed on my drill press.
Anyhow I might have to offload the video to youtube or something. I've pushed out over 5 GB of upload since I posted this lol
::Edit::
Yeah I had to offload the video to youtube's servers, the site link has remained the same as in the original post above so you guys won't really notice a difference. Also feel free to check out the rest of the site while you're there.Last edited by AaronX; 02-12-2009 at 02:42 PM.
-
02-12-2009, 02:51 PM #7
very nicely done DaddyX!
Also love the HQ of the video.
əˌfisyəˈnädō | pərˈfekSH(ə)nəst | eS'prəSSo | düvəl ləvər
-
02-12-2009, 03:21 PM #8
-
02-13-2009, 03:34 AM #9
I run at the slowest speed too and I use cobalt bits. Occasionally I'll get that one nickel/silver rod that is as hard as titanium. I started noticing more heat then I like when I get tough ones. I usually drill through to below the line of the scales. This insures that the scales won't snap or break if they are a reluctant to come off the pin. I have also had situations were there was actually some rust scale in the pin hole. The oil help slide those scales off nicely. Well, the razor was 200 years-old. I take all the precautions I can especially when I'm doing heirloom restorations. I want all the safety margins I can give myself.
Your video will help a lot of guys avoid the heart ache of broken scales.
-
02-13-2009, 04:12 AM #10
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Posts
- 2
Thanked: 0Thank you for posting this! I need to do this soon to a Filarmonica I'm trying to get into shape, and this will help a lot when I get there.