Results 1 to 8 of 8
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02-15-2009, 11:56 PM #1
- Join Date
- Dec 2008
- Location
- Toronto, ON
- Posts
- 29
Thanked: 6Bare Minimum Tools Required for Restoration
Hello Gents,
I'm going to try and make this concise, but I'm sure there will be bits that don't make sense.
I have two razors that need a lot of restoration work. I basically have no tools (hammer, screwdrivers, wrenches, and rachet set). What do I need to get workable shavers? I live in a TINY apartment and have no room for big power tools, plus I'd like to get a feel for hand-shaping the razor from abused to beauty.
Basically looking to clean up the blades I already have - none of the super cool fancy drilling/embellishment of the pro restorers.
I know that I need sandpaper to clean up the pitting and active rust, been a bitch trying to find silicon carbide though (which if i read the wiki correctly is the best stuff). I know I need to find fastening hardware and new scales.
I think from reading that I'm going to need a ball peen hammer, jig-saw (for scales), hones. I have to be missing stuff, but i'm just not even sure what the right questions are.
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02-16-2009, 01:52 AM #2
I too live in a similar apartment.
Here is what I have.
1/16 pin remover
Ball peen hammer
3 Stones
Flat wood and sandpaper (for honing and removing smiles, frowns, and elvises)
Coping saw (instead of a jig saw)
Dremel
Full sizee drill.
Need to get a hobby vise (using wood for now)
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02-16-2009, 02:44 AM #3
Here is my minimal list.
You can use other kinds of sandpaper on metal other than silicon carbide. Aluminum oxide papers work well with metal as long as you don’t use water for a lubricant. 3in1 oil or odorless mineral spirits make a great lubricant when using paper made for wood on metal.
For scales,
- A bench hook is super handy tool for holding wood while working, It is nice because it does not have to be screwed to a table or counter top to make it work.
- Coping saw, buy blades and change them when needed.
- An inexpensive ryoba saw for ripping and crosscutting wood.
- A half round double cut file and a 4 in one rasp are good for shaping.
- A drill (I like the old fashion egg beater style) and bits.
- Sandpaper.
For blades,
- Sandpaper various grits.
- Metal polish.
- Diagonal cutters
- Six inch mill file
- Small ball peen hammer
- Pin stock and washers
- 1000 grit silicon carbide to set bevel
- Norton 4/8K
Finishing,
- 400 grit sandpaper, for between coats
- 0000 steel wool
- Birchwood Casey Tru-oil - it is easy to use and can be put on with your finger and buffed to a nice satin finish with the steel wool
CharlieLast edited by spazola; 02-16-2009 at 01:23 PM.
- A bench hook is super handy tool for holding wood while working, It is nice because it does not have to be screwed to a table or counter top to make it work.
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The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to spazola For This Useful Post:
JimR (03-12-2009), kevint (03-12-2009), Sticky (03-12-2009), tdgrunt (03-12-2009), the wanderer (03-14-2009)
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03-11-2009, 06:39 PM #4
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Posts
- 39
Thanked: 7This should totally be stickied. I was looking for a intro intro thread like this for a while.
I'm trying to get an idea of how to get started on this rinky dink razor I got off ebay (i.e. clean it up before I send it to get honed) and the information in this thread on grit and polishing mats is super helpful. Thanks guys
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03-12-2009, 12:13 AM #5
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Location
- Sunshiny coast of Oz
- Posts
- 211
Thanked: 20I have a canadian tire "job mate" brand electric dremel thingy, mostly jobmate is crap, but it is dirt cheap. also look and see if you have a pincess auto store near you, great place to find cheap tools. their house brand, Power Fist, are cheap. very cheap, but for tools that you will only use a few times, or don't need to be bullet proof, they are more than enough. Princess has the random-est odd crap ever. That and your local lee valley store, they have some nice jeweler's tools and the like.
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03-12-2009, 12:17 AM #6
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03-12-2009, 12:35 AM #7
- Join Date
- Sep 2008
- Location
- Yonkers, NY however, born and raised in Moultrie,GA!
- Posts
- 554
Thanked: 151I can say I live in a small apartment and did my first restoration on my computer desk. But, now I have a small table to work from. For me, I started with some red oak, a mini hacksaw (bad idea because a coping saw is better) a ball peen hammer, 1/16 punch and some wire cutters.
Now I have a drill press, scroll saw , and better equipment that my father uses in his shop to saw my designs. But, the best scales I have made were done with a bastard file and my hacksaw, so you dont need major tools.
The sandpaper is a must, but I also recommend a Dremel because you can sand, use the wire brush, and polish with it although a bench polisher is probably better.
Listen to the others, because its all good advice. As far as what you need, the coping saw, sandpaper, hammer, are a must. Everything else you might be able to get by without.
Good Luck!
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The Following User Says Thank You to treydampier For This Useful Post:
tdgrunt (03-12-2009)
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03-12-2009, 08:18 AM #8
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Location
- Phoenix
- Posts
- 1,125
Thanked: 156Absolute minimum. I'm great at that. Ok, ALL YOU NEED IS:
1 razor with workable scales and a pin in decent condition. Pinning work requires a lot more tools.
120, 220, 320, 400, 600, 800 grit sandpaper.
Mineral Oil/WD-40 (Optional)
Old T-shirt
Turtle Wax PREMIUM (not the regular) rubbing compound
MAAS or Flitz
20 man hours
and that is it. That is the absolute minimum you need. Pretty cheap too. The sandpaper and turtle wax are the most expensive items. Should set you back only $55. You start by sanding off all the gunk on the razor. Then once it is all gone, you move up in grit until you get to 800. Then you bust out the rubbing compound, turn on the tube and rub away for the next 4 hours. Then once you can see yourself in the blade, you bust out the maas and rub for another 30 minutes. Then, sit back, crack open a beer, bust out your camera and share your restoration with the rest of us!
Oh yeah, scales. Just wash them with dish soap and then polish them up with maas. If they're really bad, use the sandpaper on them. Just stick the cloth in between the scales, apply maas or t wax and clean the inside.
As for the area between the scales, fold the sanpaper, and scrape that **** off. Then apply maas to a toothbrush and get all the rust out. The important thing is to get rid of the active oxidation. Floss helps to get in that area too.
And thats it. Restoration on the cheap. Trust me though, its not very pleasant. Get ready to dig in for the long haul.
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Leighton For This Useful Post:
Sansnom (03-12-2009), tdgrunt (03-12-2009), the wanderer (03-14-2009)