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  1. #11
    Senior Member singlewedge's Avatar
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    If the wood is Alaskan Yellow Cedar, google it, then it has excellent resistance to rot and other diseases.

    When I epoxy the wood, if it will put everyone at ease. I'll put 5 coats on the thing. I just cannot believe or imagine that someone would get an infection off of the scales.

    I never hold the scales that close to the face. YMMV

    I would never proffer anything that would knowingly harm someone.

    Please, if anyone thinks that this is a problem let me know. I was planning 3 coats of epoxy and 3 of Poly for the straight grain stuff or just tung oil.

    Prepping it is not going to be easy, hand sanded and knocked down and then cut by hand because I do not want to risk a blow out with a jig saw.

    It is a wonderful silver color. We will see.

  2. #12
    Senior Member singlewedge's Avatar
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    I have put an ad in the Member Services section.

    I am going to get pics up ASAP of the wood and I will get a pic of each type of scale so that you can see the finished product.

    I have NO power tools I will try to use my inlaws jig saw, but since the majority of this will be done at my apartment I will do most of it by hand using a coping saw and hand sanding.

    I am taking orders for 10 days ONLY so that I can gauge the amount that I need to make. Right now I need to make 4 sets.

    1 for me and 2 others for members and 2 for a PIF.

    They are going to be standard scales like this:


    Except not black and not pinned. Just standard scales. I don't want to push my luck with my limited technology.

  3. #13
    Senior Member blabbermouth ChrisL's Avatar
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    Just remember to be careful if there is any remnants of paint left on the barn wood. Most likely it would be leaded paint. Don't lick your fingers.

    Chris L
    "Blues fallin' down like hail." Robert Johnson
    "Aw, Pretty Boy, can't you show me nuthin but surrender?" Patti Smith

  4. #14
    Senior Member singlewedge's Avatar
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    Thought of that already, which is why I chose an interior beam and not an exterior member.

    Lead paint, no way, ate too much of it as a kid anyway. Didn't like the taste.

  5. #15
    Senior Member blabbermouth ChrisL's Avatar
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    Well if you're going for an interior beam, then be careful for the infused off gassing of ammonium somethingorotherate from the cattle that were housed in the barn for decades.

    Chris L
    "Blues fallin' down like hail." Robert Johnson
    "Aw, Pretty Boy, can't you show me nuthin but surrender?" Patti Smith

  6. #16
    Senior Member singlewedge's Avatar
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    I posted pics of the wood and the grain in the ads section.

    The grain looks circular but once I cut it. It is board straight. I asked the wife to take pics of the stuff that I had cut but she was in a hurry.

  7. #17
    Senior Member singlewedge's Avatar
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    I have 8 orders. Thanks so much guys. I am starting work on them this weekend.

    I am going to use System Three's two part self-leveling epoxy. I think 2 coats should do the trick as this stuff harder than a coffin nail.

    It takes 3-5 days to fully cure but I can get those in the mail after a 3 day cure and when they get to your place they will be complete.

    If anyone has experience with this system let me know. It calls for a torch to kill the bubbles if any. Is this necessary?

  8. #18
    Comfortably Numb Del1r1um's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by singlewedge View Post
    I have 8 orders. Thanks so much guys. I am starting work on them this weekend.

    I am going to use System Three's two part self-leveling epoxy. I think 2 coats should do the trick as this stuff harder than a coffin nail.

    It takes 3-5 days to fully cure but I can get those in the mail after a 3 day cure and when they get to your place they will be complete.

    If anyone has experience with this system let me know. It calls for a torch to kill the bubbles if any. Is this necessary?
    I've used it before and it is good stuff... it sets up very thick so you may not be able to do two coats. The torch use is usually something that I need to do to get out all of the bubbles (I can't remember if this is also necessary to help it set up correctly). Also you may still have bubbles after the first go round until all of the pores of the wood soak up the epoxy. lightly sand with a really fine grit until the surface is even and you get out any bubbles then reapply if needed. If there are not bubbles after the first coat it may be thick enough to go right away. At least that's my experience with it.

  9. The Following User Says Thank You to Del1r1um For This Useful Post:

    singlewedge (03-05-2009)

  10. #19
    Senior Member singlewedge's Avatar
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    Houston we have a problem. I epoxied my test pieces this weekend and while the AYC came out this wonderful buttery color, the barnwood silver turned a muddy brown and soaked up the epoxy.

    After


    Before


    AYC color


    If anyone has any suggestions let me know and the push pin thingy. Thats the Mr. Ugly drying rack. I have no bench grinder so I lightly push the pins into the item to hold it steady and level then I can get under them with a brush to remove the drips.
    Last edited by singlewedge; 03-09-2009 at 07:13 PM.

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