Thread: Dealing with Rust

So I bought my first eBay razor...this one. (Item number: 110362472917) I bought it knowing full well the risks, but the pictures looked thorough, and I got the advice of a seasoned veteran--and it just looked so darned cool.
The problem is, there turned out to be active rust in a hidden area. I don't actually blame the seller--there is a bit of rust on the tang INSIDE where the scales usually cover it, so it's probably just a matter of a slip-up in usage after care. The edge is fine, and it actually appears shave ready.

But...how do I handle the rust? How should I treat the razorto prevent further damage? Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks!

To me that is merely a cosmetic issue. I keep some 1k sand paper purchased at an auto parts store and wet it and wipe the surface rust away. The only time I worry about rust on an old blade is when it had caused pitting at the edge that may be too deep to hone through. Then unless it is a large blade it is toast.

Some people will remove the blade from the scales and clean and polish the whole thing. That is nice if it is your preference but I just clean them in the scales with some metal polish and hone them up and shave. YMMV. Nice razor BTW !!

You can also apply a drop or two of WD40, that should help with the worst rust under the scales.

My experience, limited as it is, is this.

It depends on how deep the rust goes and if I can get to it. If it is surface rust. 1k paper or neverdull will get out most of it. If it extends to a point I can't adequetly reach. I'll unpin it and go after it.

Really depends on your comfort level.

WD-40 is good, Kroil is better, the flat dental floss is great...
You need to obviously clean those scales too.... 1k sandpaper will do everything and then some MAAS to polish and protect...

I try never to pop pins unless absolutely necessary on vintage razors, but that is just my opinion...

Being in Japan you might have some difficulty finding some of those names, but I bet there are local equivilents...

Thanks for all the advice, guys. I'll give it a clean...I was actually worried about popping the scales, I figured that if the rust had got under there, I might have to remove them to get it all cleaned out. Good to hear it's not necessary.

I'll try to find some local equivalent to WD40...shouldn't be TOO hard, people need to clean and lubricate machinery in Japan, too.

One thing you should be perpared for, I forgot to mention above...
Once you get this all cleaned up 9 out of 10 times you are going to have to tighten the pins.... Once all that gunk and rust is outta there, you will find that razor moves way better....

oh yeah one more hint if the razor is loose leave it that way until after you clean it, then tighten...

JimR, this sounds like a real burden....let me lighten your load, brotha!




I really dig that blade! Cool outline, little known brand, very unique grind....Tell us how it shaves after you get it shined and honed up! I'm betting it will knock your socks off!

Originally Posted by Seraphim

JimR, this sounds like a real burden....let me lighten your load, brotha!




I really dig that blade! Cool outline, little known brand, very unique grind....Tell us how it shaves after you get it shined and honed up! I'm betting it will knock your socks off!

Thanks...I dig it too. It's actually already honed--the seller seems to know what he's talking about (he says he honed it on a coticule with a thuringian finish) and it feels good on the TPT and the HHT is clean. I'm going to shave with it this weekend...

I'm not sure how much I want to clean it up. The scales are solid but the finish is coming off; they must have been something back in the day. I actually kind of like the worn look on it...this looks like a blade that's seen the world. Though there is some annoying scratching on the lower blade, like someone started to try to sand the discoloration off and gave up.

I'll think about it...it's fun to look at it, though.

What I do with rust in that area is to sand it off with 400 or 600 grit sandpaper, folded so that it fits in the crack. I really try not to get the pins out unless absolutely necessary.

If your obsessive about it, you can put some MAAS on a toothbrush and finish the sanding with 1.5k grit and get it pretty shiny. But tbh, no one ever looks there and as long as the rust is gone, its all good to me. I throw a drop of mineral oil down there to help with sanding and lubrication.