Thread: Working with spalted maple

I just received a nice set of spalted maple. It's line spalting, so it's minor. Should I be concerned with stabilizing the wood before working with it? Since the spalting is minimal can I just move ahead as I normally would?

Originally Posted by FastEdge

Should I be concerned with stabilizing the wood before working with it? Since the spalting is minimal can I just move ahead as I normally would?

In my opinion (which I'm sure not a lot of people will agree with) you should not use this wood until you take steps to stabilize it. Any really figured wood like this, however minimal the lines, can be a nightmare in its natural state. Spalted maple I know from experience can have random soft spots and is very prone to cracking/splitting/breaking at any of the figuring. For something like scales which need some flex in most cases, even a liner won't take care of this problem. Some guys will say that if you just finish the wood adequately it will be fine, but personally I've had sets just snap in two after doing that. I am a big advocate of stabilizing figured woods in all instances when using them on straights.

Thanks Alex. I figured it might be the case. I will start looking into how to do this then. Any suggestions on a low budget method for stabilizing wood?

Ed,

get yourself some thin super glue or CA and soak that into the wood. It will fill and stabilize spalt. Polyester or Epoxy resin works well too once buffed.

send it out for proper stabilization
then you cant say you ddint do the best possible for the wood and for the razor
we all know that the cost of steel wood and belts are small in the total
its all about the work you put into those blocks and bars and to have a fail after you put your good time into it would suck

not going ot tell you that stabilized wood keeps you from failing but it sure does help in the long run

K&G and WSSI can fix you up

If you want to stabilize the wood yourself, go to North Coast Knives,NorthCoast Knives Tutorials: Hints and Tips Page 3, they have a great way to do it yourself. I am just finishing up on my first set of scales with this using Sassafras wood, and all seems very good! Hope this helps!

That's a good How To, if it works. I've got some spalted something (came out of the firewood pile). I'll give it a go before i use it.

A fine looking piece of wood, too small for a mandolin back? Is it thick enough to resaw and bookmatch again? Nice.

Originally Posted by rrp1501

If you want to stabilize the wood yourself, go to North Coast Knives,NorthCoast Knives Tutorials: Hints and Tips Page 3, they have a great way to do it yourself. I am just finishing up on my first set of scales with this using Sassafras wood, and all seems very good! Hope this helps!

This looks like a fascinating process. I'm wondering if the wood should be stabilized before working with it or should I stabilize the finished product? In the former case, how much more difficult is it to work with once it's been processed? And should the pin holes be drilled prior to stabilizing of afterward?

Originally Posted by leadduck

I'm wondering if the wood should be stabilized before working with it or should I stabilize the finished product? In the former case, how much more difficult is it to work with once it's been processed? And should the pin holes be drilled prior to stabilizing of afterward?

Stabilizing a finished or thin piece could MAKE the piece warp. That is why usually all stabilizing is done to wood when it is still in a block form (1/8" pieces of wood should not be stabilized IMO). Not hard to work when done.