Thread: Is it possible (for a hobbyist) to fix hone wear?

Originally Posted by gssixgun

BTW we are all hobbiests I don't think any one does restoration as a actual job... if I am wrong please feel free to correct me, and all you semi-retired guys don't count

Yeah, fair point. I suppose I really meant a newbie hobbyist.

Thanks for the advice, all!

I've been curious about this, doesn't removing hone wear alter the shape of the bevel that you're going to get? I've removed hone wear a couple times and ended up with an uneven bevel, I figured removing the hone wear caused the bevel to end up that way.

Originally Posted by Pete_S

I've been curious about this, doesn't removing hone wear alter the shape of the bevel that you're going to get? I've removed hone wear a couple times and ended up with an uneven bevel, I figured removing the hone wear caused the bevel to end up that way.

Yup. You are correct. Sort of.

Junior High School geometry says that any time you remove metal from the spine without removing metal from the edge, as with "repairing" hone wear, you will be making the bevel more acute.

Likewise, every time you remove metal from the edge without removing metal from the spine (i.e. taping the spine) you are creating a more obtuse bevel.

There are lot's of reasons a person might do either one of these things on purpose, and some pretty good arguments to suggest that it's not likely to matter much in your lifetime with a razor anyway.

An "uneven" bevel is sort of a separate issue. Without seeing what you are talking about, it sounds to me more like the hone wear was repaired badly, leading to a tapered spine, which in turn created an uneven bevel.

Can someone explain where the metal is removed from in order to "cover up" the hone wear?

Originally Posted by Leighton

Can someone explain where the metal is removed from in order to "cover up" the hone wear?

I think what they are talking about is hone wear that is uneven, or looks uneven. So, the metal that would be removed is however much of the side of the spine that has to be ground off to take it all down to the same level. Sort of like lapping a hone.

I thought what was being talked about was lessening the flat area on the spine left by the hone - if so, increasing the extent of the upper part of the hollow grind isn't going to alter angle of the blade as it lays on the hone - as long as a sliver of that flat area remains and you don't go into the return curve at the top of the spine - is that right?

If so, we aren't talking about removing metal from the sides of the spine, just reducing the width of the flat area, so the angle is not affected.

Maybe I misunderstood the OP, though?!

Regards,
Neil

Originally Posted by Neil Miller

Maybe I misunderstood the OP, though?!l

Well, that, or I misunderstood.

If you're right, then I don't see why that would have an effect on the shape/angle of the bevel, but it seems like that would be MUCH harder to do without a bench grinder and years of experience.

I had a Wostenholm with bad wear and i used a dremel to decrease the ridge and make a nice radius in 15 min then spent maybe 3 hours finishing it out by hand turned out great. be really care full with the dremel though man they heat up a blade fasta dn you don want to ruin the temper.