Thread: Restore newb needs opinions

I've PMd several people and am reading conflicting things. I'm thinking of handsanding.

I just want a mirror finish, maybe bring the scales back a bit and get her honed up.

What does pitting look like? I don't see what I'd call rust, and I don't see any pits either...but I'm a newb.

How would you go about this restore?

I'd buff it. But I imagine you don't have the equipment for that.

Originally Posted by floppyshoes

I'd buff it. But I imagine you don't have the equipment for that.

What do I need to buff metal? MAAS? I can buy it (I've got 5 other blades on their way in similar condition as this, I imagine). You don't think it needs a full regrind?

What damage do you see on the blade?

BTW, the photos are really big. Click the links above, then click again and once more to get the whole thing.

Its kind of hard to tell from the photos, but I see a couple of things (I think). In the second photo, on the spine near the toe I see what looks like some pitting to me, also I think that you may find some pitting underneath the dark spots you see all over the blade... most of this should go away with handsanding/buffing. Also, you've got some hone wear, and maybe some heat damage (really can't tell, could be something else) on the edge side of the toe.

that's what it looks like to me anyhow.

For this you'd need:

• A buffer (1/2 hp minimum)
• A sturdy workbench to mount it on
• Appropriate mandrels
• A set of greaseless compounds and rouges
• Sisal and Cotton Wheels, one for each compound

And last, but not least, the skill and know how required to avoid shooting a hot razor into your belly.

Originally Posted by Ichinichi

What do I need to buff metal? MAAS? I can buy it (I've got 5 other blades on their way in similar condition as this, I imagine). You don't think it needs a full regrind?

What damage do you see on the blade?

BTW, the photos are really big. Click the links above, then click again and once more to get the whole thing.

Originally Posted by Ichinichi

What do I need to buff metal? MAAS? I can buy it

I believe Dan meant buff it on a 'buffer'- a machine that uses buffing wheels charged with abrasive.

Originally Posted by Del1r1um

Its kind of hard to tell from the photos, but I see a couple of things (I think). In the second photo, on the spine near the toe I see what looks like some pitting to me, also I think that you may find some pitting underneath the dark spots you see all over the blade... most of this should go away with handsanding/buffing. Also, you've got some hone wear, and maybe some heat damage (really can't tell, could be something else) on the edge side of the toe.

that's what it looks like to me anyhow.

You mean the black gunk? It looks like its from the scale...scale rot? I don't even know what that looks like, just things I've read here. But it is raised off of the blade.

Edge side of the toe looks like heat damage to me as well...but could be something else?

Well, if it's only gunk that comes off easily then I may be wrong, but from the pictures I've zoomed in on I'm betting that you'll find pits underneath the black stuff... also the small pinpoint black spots look like they will have pits underneath...




again it's really hard to say without seeing it in person, but I'm betting that as soon as you try to take that dark stuff off and polish the blade you'll find pits. Also, if that is heat damage on the toe, you may be in for more trouble than this razor is worth... if the temper is ruined on the blade it's not going to be pretty.

All the dark spots you see on the blade is pitting. The heavy staining you see on the spine towards the toe is heavy pitting. In my experience most can be removed but you will be left with remaining residual pits or stains. Sometimes the pitting goes so deep that even a total reground will not help unless you have plenty of steel to remove and it's a bigger blade giving you some room to loose steel. But even that doesn't give you a guarantee.

Completely hand sanding is an option but be prepared to spend countless hours sanding from the low to the high grits. A buffer like Dan suggest is the fastest way to go but unless you have the right equipment and products to do so and know exactly what you're doing.
And don't even mention the word Dremel or you will turn Glen aka The G-man turn around from his grave. All jokes aside. Safety when working with any of your blades should be your main priority especially if you have no prior experience.

Originally Posted by Maximilian

All the dark spots you see on the blade is pitting. The heavy staining you see on the spine towards the toe is heavy pitting. In my experience most can be removed but you will be left with remaining residual pits or stains. Sometimes the pitting goes so deep that even a total reground will not help unless you have plenty of steel to remove and it's a bigger blade giving you some room to loose steel. But even that doesn't give you a guarantee.

Completely hand sanding is an option but be prepared to spend countless hours sanding from the low to the high grits. A buffer like Dan suggest is the fastest way to go but unless you have the right equipment and products to do so and know exactly what you're doing.
And don't even mention the word Dremel or you will turn Glen aka The G-man turn around from his grave. All jokes aside. Safety when working with any of your blades should be your main priority especially if you have no prior experience.

+1 Even retarded Norm Abram knows to where safety glasses