Results 21 to 27 of 27
-
06-05-2009, 07:07 AM #21
- Join Date
- Apr 2009
- Posts
- 786
Thanked: 132
-
06-05-2009, 06:42 PM #22
- Join Date
- Apr 2009
- Posts
- 786
Thanked: 132Hmm...i have to say, that the hairs on the brush fluffed up considerably after i finally used it...definately look better.
Mac
-
07-13-2009, 04:28 AM #23
Hey veedubb65 do you have any suggestions on removing boars hair from vulcanized rubber? I tried boiling and using pliers but no luck, only thing left I can think of is to try cutting around the inside and crowbaring the not out with something.
Thanks in advance!
-
07-13-2009, 07:14 AM #24
- Join Date
- Apr 2009
- Location
- Monmouth, OR - USA
- Posts
- 1,163
Thanked: 317The brush I restored was a rubberset brush. Certainly, the boiling water will NOT work on a rubber set brush.
As for the pliers, even if that ends up not working, that should be your starting place. I'll try to explain it as clearly as possible, because it probably isn't as clear as it should be with just text. If I could send you a video, you'd see what I'm talking about instantly, but I don't have a practical way to do that. (I don't own any form of video camera)
Start with the brush standing up on the flat end of the handle.
Lay a pair of needle nose pliers on the table next to them. (I know that's silly, just do it anyway)
That's the position the pliers should be in. With the pliers held perpendicular to the brush, just as they would be sitting on the table next to it, grab a clump of hair about the thickness of a wooden pencil.
From there, do NOT try to "pull" the hair out. Do not try to "twist" the hair out. Instead, try to "roll" the pliers so that the bristles would wrap around them.
Keep going until you either break off all of those bristles, or pull out a plug of bristles. Don't worry if they all break.
Repeat that process until one of two things happens: either you have broken all of the bristles off, or you have pulled out enough clumps that you can pull the rest out by hand.
If you break off all of the bristles of the entire brush, it's actually very simple to clean everything out. (Just mind numbingly tedious)
Simple take an exacto knife, flatblade screwdriver, knitting needles, pocket knife, whatever you've got, and start digging at the remains of the knot.
Eventually, it will all come out. There's no magic to it, it's just not much fun.
-
The Following User Says Thank You to VeeDubb65 For This Useful Post:
mbwhoosh (07-13-2009)
-
07-13-2009, 09:58 AM #25
Thanks Steve!
I figured the boiling wouldn't help in this case but I got the brush for $1 so I thought what the heck. I read your suggestion earlier on in the thread of using the rolling motion with the pliers but when more and more hair kept breaking off I kinda got worried so I thought I would ask.
you explained the process perfectly fine and I could visualize the whole process without any trouble.
guess I'll start the fun process of picking out the knot since I don't think the rolling/yanking method is gonna do anything. I assume the loc-tight will work in this situation? I have never used it, will it also work on metal handles? I have one of those as well I am considering rebrushing.
Thanks for all the help and info!! This really should be added to the wiki or at the least a sticky. It's why I posted here instead of pm ing you ,so it would bump back into the light
Thanks again
-
07-13-2009, 10:05 AM #26
All that trouble for a USD 1 brush?
Last edited by Kees; 07-13-2009 at 03:50 PM.
Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose. Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr.
-
07-13-2009, 10:45 AM #27
Actually I got a lot of 3 DD brushes for 1 usd +plus shipping so $6 (I know right shipping is more than the product crazy)
I have a goldedge staright razor being honed and thought having a matching brush would be cool. plus it's my first restore so I wouldn't want to try it on a nice expensive brush first, right?!