Thread: Reshaping Heel of Blade Question

what is the best way to reshape the heel of the blade. I have a Bench Weasel (Dremel like tool for gunsmithing). I was thinking about using it on a slow setting but i dont want to snap the blade. would a fine needle file or bastard file be the best way?

I am really hesitant to answer this one, When you say re-shape the heel could you maybe give me some more info on what yer thinking???

That being said, I have never used a file on the blade side of a razor...

I can tell you that the razor is going to eat up that file pretty quickly. Plus its going to take forever.

What exactly are you thinking of when you say reshape the heel of the blade? Seraphim does mods using a dremel. IIRC he uses wet paper towels and a vice grip.

i guess its not really a reshape as much as it is smoothing it out and giving it a more polished surface. The back side of the heel where it meets the underside of the tang was not smoothed out and has fairly deep tooling marks that will collect moisture. All i really want to do is smooth that area out to make it mirror polished not necessarily a total reshape. I will post a pic of the area im talking about as soon as i find my higher mega pixel camera. the one on my digital camcorder really wont get close enough to show the detail.

Yep a dremel with either a fine stone, or a sanding drum, will do the trick...

Just be aware of the heat build up and your fine...


Cast Steel ?????? what brand is that????

Im not sure how to do the link attachment thing but here is the url to the thread. This is what manah thought it was.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/razor...ade-razor.html

Why not wrap (or glue) a strip of Silicon Carbide sand paper around a ruler and use that as you would a file to smooth the heel? Sounds safer to me… for you and the blade.
Start with 600 grit.

where can you get silicone carbide sand paper? would 600 be course enough or would i be there all day sanding?

It’s the same wet dry paper you use to sand (remove rust/tarnish) the blade, available at the nearest auto supply. The grit you start with depends on how much “smoothing” you want to do… 600 is a good place to start and of you are not getting there in reasonable time then switch to 400 to remove material quicker.

I will have to try that. I just thought about using a piece of dowel and glue it to that to get some casting marks out of the tail. Thanks for the suggestion.