Thread: sand paper for cleaning up an old oxidized/rusty blade?

Would a sandpaper work for that? If so what kind would I need. I have to do it by hand as I don't have any tools and such.

Moved to the workshop, for some great answers

but with fewer views = fewere responses

Originally Posted by BYUTexan

but with fewer views = fewere responses

Well, I can at least offer a pointer to an article originally written by Bruno and fleshed out since then. I think it's fairly comprehensive as a starting point: Hand sanding a blade - Straight Razor Place Wiki.

Originally Posted by BYUTexan

but with fewer views = fewere responses

Sometime's that's just the way it is.

Wet & dry paper is what you should be using. You can use it with water, but you'll find you get very good results with a light oil, such as WD40. It seems to carry the slurry better. There are a few posts on what grit's to use, depending on the condition of the blade.

Originally Posted by ben.mid

Sometime's that's just the way it is.

Wet & dry paper is what you should be using. You can use it with water, but you'll find you get very good results with a light oil, such as WD40. It seems to carry the slurry better. There are a few posts on what grit's to use, depending on the condition of the blade.

LOL

What about olive oil? I'm gonna stop by home depot soon and pick up some sand paper, from what I understand I am gonna need a fine grit?

I'd avoid olive oil & just get the real thing when you get the wet & dry.
I use the progression 320 400 600 800 1000 1200 or thereabouts. I'd go up to 2000 if i could get any higher grit's round here.

My starting grit is determined by the state of the blade.

Start with a higher grit than you think you might need, because if you start too low you might find you're not sanding corrosion off, but merely the scratches you yourself caused.

Originally Posted by BYUTexan

LOL

What about olive oil? I'm gonna stop by home depot soon and pick up some sand paper, from what I understand I am gonna need a fine grit?

IME wd40 works best. I like 3m paper, and I usually go with something like 220, 400, 600, 1000, and so on generally never going up by more than double grit number. I try to go toe to heel with one grit, then spine to edge with the next grit and so on. Don't move up until all scratches from previous grits ate gone. Hope it helps

Ben is right on,
also, check the wiki under restoration and you'll find a tutorial on hand sanding

Originally Posted by BYUTexan

but with fewer views = fewere responses

Maybe I am missing something in that response????

Why would you get fewer responses by having a restoration question, in the Workshop where the restoration "Nutcases" hang out??????

There is one tool I ordered and that is a small rectangular eraser with mild abrasive in it. They are supposed to be very good for removing stains etc without making any marks on the steel you have to remove later. I'm hoping it works as advertised.
Lansky Eraser Block