Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    549
    Thanked: 124

    Default Need advice on woodworking project

    This is a little off topic. Sorry, but IDK who else to ask for help.

    I scavenged a couple freshly cut elm logs to make a traditional kung fu dummy out of one (dunno what I planned to do with the other). I skinned the bark off b/c it's easy to do while the wood was still green, & painted the cut ends with latex paint to limit cracking.

    I had them in my basement & while the smell of fresh elm was nice, they were not drying b/c there's nowhere for the moisture to go. So I moved them outside under an overhang, just in time for it to rain nonstop for 2 weeks.

    They're not in the direct rain, but they both got a nice coating of mold, which I keep washing off w/bleach solution. The rain continues, I don't want to move moldy logs back into the house, & IDK what to do to save this project. Wait till the fall & sand it down to clean wood?

    At this point every stupid thing I do is a band-aid over some other stupid thing I've done.

    HELP!

  2. #2
    I be architect'n
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    71
    Thanked: 10

    Default

    Just let it sit outside, under cover, until you get a stretch of good weather. The mold will dry by then and you can sand it off no problem.

    Typically anything that will happen will all be surface issues that a good sanding will take care of. You might get some splitting/checking when drying a section of whole log without the bark.

  3. The Following User Says Thank You to 6Myles For This Useful Post:

    Johnny J (07-01-2009)

  4. #3
    Senior Member floppyshoes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Montreal, Quebec
    Posts
    610
    Thanked: 147

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 6Myles View Post
    Just let it sit outside, under cover, until you get a stretch of good weather. The mold will dry by then and you can sand it off no problem.

    Typically anything that will happen will all be surface issues that a good sanding will take care of. You might get some splitting/checking when drying a section of whole log without the bark.
    I agree with everything above. I would also add that you should make sure the log is completely out of direct sunlight as this will greatly inrease the risk for warping cracking.

  5. The Following User Says Thank You to floppyshoes For This Useful Post:

    Johnny J (07-01-2009)

  6. #4
    what Dad calls me nun2sharp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Kansas city area USA
    Posts
    9,172
    Thanked: 1677

    Default

    It may have been better to leave the bark on it, once it thoroughly dries( 1yr) the log will have shrunk and the bark could be removed easily.
    It is easier to fool people than to convince them they have been fooled. Twain

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to nun2sharp For This Useful Post:

    Johnny J (07-01-2009)

  8. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    549
    Thanked: 124

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nun2sharp View Post
    It may have been better to leave the bark on it, once it thoroughly dries( 1yr) the log will have shrunk and the bark could be removed easily.
    Probably true. I was trying to get it to dry faster by removing the bark. (that could have been one of my aforementioned stupid ideas). Cracking is not terribly alarming. All traditional mook yan jongs that are made from logs crack to some degree. You have to putty them up with wood filler, that's expected. I just want to dry it enough to put lag bolts into the bottom to attach brackets. (Unlike Wing Chun mooks, Hop Gar mooks are simple poles with no arms or legs).

  9. #6
    Senior Member kevint's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    1,875
    Thanked: 285

    Default

    I think you did right to remove the bark- it can lead to decay especially if drying outdoors. it does not prevent checking to leave it on . Painting the ends; good- what to know why latex paint is suggested? it is cheap and commonly available. heavy heavy coat(s) is best.

    Another thing that is done drying wood with the heart intact is to cut a longitudinal kerf to near center, both retards checking and speeds drying.

    With this particular project I do not understand the need for dry wood- hang it up and go. I think I would lag into the sides if possible but whichever.

  10. The Following User Says Thank You to kevint For This Useful Post:

    Johnny J (07-06-2009)

  11. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    549
    Thanked: 124

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kevint View Post
    With this particular project I do not understand the need for dry wood- hang it up and go. I think I would lag into the sides if possible but whichever.
    I just don't want it to crack around the bolt holes as it dries & shrinks. It was REALLY green when I got it. The bolts are going to go into the sides near the bottom, to attach L-brackets that will fasten the dummy to a flat plywood base.

  12. #8
    Senior Member Milton Man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Ottawa, Canada
    Posts
    971
    Thanked: 132

    Default

    I agree with everything said here - I'll just add one more thing - you should use some stickers (small pieces of wood) to lift the elm off the ground - you want good air circulation all around the piece.

    Mark

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •