Thread: Scotchbrite too harsh?

Hi All -
I'm thrilled to have just received an old Rodgers and Sons wedge that needs some TLC (do I have to take out that little nick?). As you can see in the photo, the steel is somewhat rust-scaled, but it still has a fairly nice polish in other areas.

My main question is: see those scratches that parallel the edge? I think I put them there with some initial rubbing with scotchbrite (after, darn it, maas didn't magically make it all better). Do I need to worry about preserving the finish (which is glossier than the scratches, clearly), or can I just hit it with whatever rough stuff and then buff with ever finer sandpaper, as in the wiki restoration?

Thanks very much -
Shuka


PS - I didn't know that this was a full wedge until it arrived (ebay). Are all Rodgers full wedges?

No all Rodgers and Sons are not wedges I have one of each. I've used MAAS to remove minor rust from my finds. I did cheat a little though I found that a brass brush on a dremel with speed settings of 5K and 10K will work through the rust. It's important though that you don't let the razor get hot. I mean if it heats up and turns blue it's toast. Using the slower speeds on the dremel keeps it from heating up as long as you go slow, work it a bit and take a break there may be pitting under the rust but work on that later. I've cleaned the majority on my razors like this and they have all done well. you can see them here Straight Razor Place Forums - ENUF2's Album: ENUF2's finds
A brass brush is softer than the steel razors are made of so rust comes off with minimal wear on the blade. I am new at this too and don't have all the stuff these other guys do but slowly and surely I'll be fixing that issue.

Yes get rid of the nick.

Scotchbrite will incur scratches. If I were you I would completely sand down the blade and nicely sand your way up to the higher grits. That way you'll remove as many blemishes, stains and scratches as you possibly can.
It's hard labor but worth the effort and you'll feel proud once you're done.
Here's a good basic explanation to get you started.

Thanks for the useful replies. I'll take the suggested high road, and start sanding away. If I can't find (enough) wedge-specific sharpening info on the wiki, I'm sure I'll be back.
Thanks,
Shuka

In future, I've found that if I want an applicator for MAAS that is slightly more aggressive than an old rag, I use the scotchbright pads made for teflon - it's slightly more abrassive than a cloth, but will not scratch like a regular scotchbright pad.

Mark