Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Munford TN
    Posts
    436
    Thanked: 46

    Default danish oil finish

    well guys this was the first set of scales i did with this stuff. im not sure if i really did it right but i htink they turned out ok. i put on 3 coats of oil and wiped it off with a cloth. then i took a coat where i took 800 grit wet/dry and wet sanded with a coat of oil i did this twice. i then took 2 coats and done it with 1500 the same way. after that i did it with 2500 twice the same way. i then hit it with some white rogue compound. as i said not sure if this was right but i think it turned out ok. tell me what you all think. if i remember right the wood was cherry.
    these were also made for a blade but i made teh wegde to thin, so i have nothing to put in it.





  2. #2
    Razor honing maniac turbine712's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    On the beautiful St. Croix river
    Posts
    228
    Thanked: 51

    Default

    nice looking scales. you know that cherry will get darker when it exposed to light so they my end up darker than they are now.

  3. The Following User Says Thank You to turbine712 For This Useful Post:

    jballs918 (07-18-2009)

  4. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Munford TN
    Posts
    436
    Thanked: 46

    Default

    no i didnt know that. but thank you for the info

  5. #4
    Member kevor's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Nijmegen, The Netherlands
    Posts
    66
    Thanked: 4

    Default

    Hey jballs918,
    It looks awesome, but how does it feel? Is it still a little oily? Been going back and forth on my choice of oil and wax.
    On a test piece I've found that the oil darkens the wood more and leaves a oily surface (Tung Oil). But haven't sanded it after applying the oil.

    Also, how does it react with water? Does it go "into" the wood (does it get darker) and how does it react with soap?

    Lot of questions, but it seems you are the person that can answer them for me

  6. #5
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Bodalla, NSW
    Posts
    15,602
    Thanked: 3748

    Default

    G'day there. Tung oil works best if it is burnished into the timber thru friction ie wet sanding. It takes several days to fully harden but should not remain oily. There are a number of modified tung oils out there ie that contain some sort of varnish. A good compromise & very serviceable.
    It will be fairly sensitive to water during the curing period but after that is pretty stable. Ideally water & soap & razor scales should not meet. Slippery sharp things cause accidents.
    btw Nice scales jballs918.
    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

  7. #6
    Senior Member Stropper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Chapel Hill North Carolina
    Posts
    249
    Thanked: 84

    Default

    Hmmm, wet sanding with danish oil. That hadn't occurred to me. I'm having some trouble finishing rosewood with polyurethane, it takes many days to dry maybe due to oil in the wood. Wet sanding with danish oil might be the solution. Very good looking scales, by the way, cherry is a favorite wood of mine too. Thank for sharing.

  8. The Following User Says Thank You to Stropper For This Useful Post:

    jballs918 (07-19-2009)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •