Thread: Pressure Fitted pins

razor scales flex because the tang is a non-constant width. Slowly open and close and watch. I THINK this might be by design as it sort of acts like a spring to resist movement, making your scales nice and tight.

The idea btw was not to find an alternate method to pinning, but rather, a way to make flush fit pins.

As Ben.mid has pointed out, it can get a nice clean look.

I have a way of doing this, take a look at this thread:http://straightrazorpalace.com/galle...-smoke-pc.html

There I have filed the pins flush with the scale material. But, the scales need to be thick enough to allow at least 1-1.5 mm of tapering to make enough "coning" of the pin. Also, this metod stresses the material a bit, so I doubt that grained materials such as ivory and bone is a good choice. Perhaps some wood spieces can be used, just test away!

how does one taper? did you use a countersink bit?

khaos;

Here is one way to accomplish what you want to do.

In the first attached image you will see the idea in the rough. Simply stated: glue in some brass inserts flush with the surface of the scales. Then, take a center drill of the appropriate size (see second photo for illustration of same) and drill almost through the brass surface plate to form the conical 'stop' hole for the peened over rivet pin. The take your ordinary drill and continue on through to make the scales ready to take the pin.

The diameter and thickness of the inserted plate need not be very great. Also, there are many materials which will lend themselves to this task, although I would tend to choose for a metal, in particular either brass, nickel silver or silver. These are soft enough to work easily, strong enough to serve for the intended purpose and cheap enough to reasonably afford. You might also choose for a hard plastic or resin impregnated substance.

This approach does require that you do a bit of careful inset and gluing work, not to mention carefully filing away the top of the peened-over pin after the hammering operation with subsequent polishing, but it will give you the effect you want.

I use exactly those bits ignatz so kindly has attached photos of, 1.6mm centerdrill. Makes a nice tapered hole.

Nice drawings by the way, ignatz, and of course that is also a way of doing it, in fact when it comes to grained materials it's probably much better also!

Originally Posted by khaos

razor scales flex because the tang is a non-constant width. Slowly open and close and watch. I THINK this might be by design as it sort of acts like a spring to resist movement, making your scales nice and tight.

The idea btw was not to find an alternate method to pinning, but rather, a way to make flush fit pins.

correct and that does not place shear on the pin

all my pins have been flush without washers, they could have been flush
http://straightrazorpalace.com/galle...-one-done.html
http://straightrazorpalace.com/galle...s-shumate.html

IMHO the tightness of your pin will be entirely dependant on the ultimate bearing strength of the wood you're using (which is in the order of 1/10th that of metals and plastics). Essentially you are using a fancy way to drive a nail into the scales without splitting them.

Also, as was said, the runout on your drill is likely more than the thermal contraction you can get on a 1/16" pin in liquid nitrogen.

Cheers,
Dan (B.Eng Building Engineering)

Ok one other dumb question here, sorry I look at the practical usage of razors first, not the "Wow it sure looks pretty" part first....
Lets say you get a perfectly flush pin fit.... how are you going to tighten it??? today??? tomorrow??? 100 years from now???

I say go for it and try, that's how we all learn new things.....Just build in the fixes too....

gsixgun, I guess that you could tighten it the same way you tighten other pins, by pinning it some more. Only you may need to file it flush again if you want the original look.

Or, you could drill out the pin and replace it, tha's an option too.

Granted, it's a little more work then conventional pins, but it costs to be on top!

Originally Posted by cako72

gsixgun, I guess that you could tighten it the same way you tighten other pins, by pinning it some more. This would destroy the "flush" look of the pins
Only you may need to file it flush again if you want the original look. This would destroy the finish on the scales

Or, you could drill out the pin and replace it, tha's an option too. This is not an option for the end user, this is only an option for a restorer/handyman

Granted, it's a little more work then conventional pins, but it costs to be on top!

These are the things I was talking about, to just do something that only "looks" good is not enough, it also has to function properly....Otherwise I don't see that as being on "top" I am starting to see the same problem arising with some of the "custom" razors out there too, with the guys that are using the Knife "pins", these need constant adjusting and tweaking...
I am all for finding new ways, but work out the problems that will arise with continual flexing of the scales or it is not a new way it is just a bad way....