Thread: Pressure Fitted pins

Originally Posted by khaos

razor scales flex because the tang is a non-constant width. Slowly open and close and watch. I THINK this might be by design as it sort of acts like a spring to resist movement, making your scales nice and tight.

The idea btw was not to find an alternate method to pinning, but rather, a way to make flush fit pins.

correct and that does not place shear on the pin

all my pins have been flush without washers, they could have been flush
http://straightrazorpalace.com/galle...-one-done.html
http://straightrazorpalace.com/galle...s-shumate.html

IMHO the tightness of your pin will be entirely dependant on the ultimate bearing strength of the wood you're using (which is in the order of 1/10th that of metals and plastics). Essentially you are using a fancy way to drive a nail into the scales without splitting them.

Also, as was said, the runout on your drill is likely more than the thermal contraction you can get on a 1/16" pin in liquid nitrogen.

Cheers,
Dan (B.Eng Building Engineering)

Ok one other dumb question here, sorry I look at the practical usage of razors first, not the "Wow it sure looks pretty" part first....
Lets say you get a perfectly flush pin fit.... how are you going to tighten it??? today??? tomorrow??? 100 years from now???

I say go for it and try, that's how we all learn new things.....Just build in the fixes too....

gsixgun, I guess that you could tighten it the same way you tighten other pins, by pinning it some more. Only you may need to file it flush again if you want the original look.

Or, you could drill out the pin and replace it, tha's an option too.

Granted, it's a little more work then conventional pins, but it costs to be on top!

Originally Posted by cako72

gsixgun, I guess that you could tighten it the same way you tighten other pins, by pinning it some more. This would destroy the "flush" look of the pins
Only you may need to file it flush again if you want the original look. This would destroy the finish on the scales

Or, you could drill out the pin and replace it, tha's an option too. This is not an option for the end user, this is only an option for a restorer/handyman

Granted, it's a little more work then conventional pins, but it costs to be on top!

These are the things I was talking about, to just do something that only "looks" good is not enough, it also has to function properly....Otherwise I don't see that as being on "top" I am starting to see the same problem arising with some of the "custom" razors out there too, with the guys that are using the Knife "pins", these need constant adjusting and tweaking...
I am all for finding new ways, but work out the problems that will arise with continual flexing of the scales or it is not a new way it is just a bad way....

As for "destroyed finish" on the scales, you obviosly need to polish them up again, just as many most restorations. How often do you have perfect scales with loose pins?

And, sure, maybe not everyone can/want to tamper with pinning/filing flush/polishing, but that can be said of a conventionally pinned razor also.

I guess we have diffrent point of views, you and I, so we will probably not agree with eachother on this matter anyways!!

Originally Posted by gssixgun

These are the things I was talking about, to just do something that only "looks" good is not enough, it also has to function properly....Otherwise I don't see that as being on "top" I am starting to see the same problem arising with some of the "custom" razors out there too, with the guys that are using the Knife "pins", these need constant adjusting and tweaking...
I am all for finding new ways, but work out the problems that will arise with continual flexing of the scales or it is not a new way it is just a bad way....

I don't know if what I did is similar enough as they are not truly flush. I've only done 3 and all were pinned the same. I never thought it was a spectacular idea. I'd seen a few old woodys done that way- with no appearance of professional work to be found, except for the blades themselves.
I liked it. It does impose it's own limits on finish, perhaps life-span, maintenance issues, even design and proportion. The first one I made; i dont use. The second, bark one, is not very good for many reasons. The last one though, we'll have to wait and see how long it can go as it is as close to ideal blade as i have.
simple, rustic and folksy, ill-conceived; that's my style

If you look at Ignatz' drawing this is sorta what I am working on now, but instead of flush and counter drilling the scale.... I am going to use a blind rivet that sits in the pin hole in the scale so that the pin is peened down into it... It will not be totally flush but should be much stronger, much neater, and hopefully still be adjustable with just a few taps from a ball peen hammer when it loosens up....

There is a way to tighten a pin that has been set or filed totally flush with the surface of the scales. However, this method, too, has its down side.

What one would do to tighten a flush set pin would be to use the rounded end of small ball peen hammer on it.

I hasten to point out that (A) the rounded end of the hammer had better be brought to a mirror polish before use, that (B) one is at very least going to leave a bit of dimpling where the pin has been tightened (thus compromising the original look) and (C) there is no way one can file it back at this point, excepting perhaps any portion of the pin that was inadvertantly raised above the surface of scales during the tightening process.

Another note: tightening a flush-set pin with the rounded end of the hammer calls for much better aim than when using the flat end of the hammer on a slightly raised pin. There is no margin for error. If you miss the pin you are definitely going to dimple/ding the surrounding surface of the scales. Your aim must be true... on every stroke.

If you think you can live with those limitations, then all well and good. If it offends you, then choose another pinning method.

Originally Posted by kevint

correct and that does not place shear on the pin

all my pins have been flush without washers, they could have been flush
http://straightrazorpalace.com/galle...-one-done.html
http://straightrazorpalace.com/galle...s-shumate.html

it does in fact place shear on the pin... the compressive/tensile forces due to flexing are lateral in the scale, which is normal to the pin, which is shearing. Trust me. I am at college for mechanical engineering. I know my mechanics of solids....