Thread: replace a Barbers notch

Ok, I have a W&B for Barbers use only that has had its notch ground off (all but just a little spot). Is it possible to regrind the notch into this blade without damaging it? If so how would this be done or who could do it?


It's the top razor

Any ideas or should I just leave well enough alone?

you could dremel that out if you have a steady hand and take your time then clean up with a round file wrapped in sandpaper

Mark it off and get out your dremel and an ice bath. Don't heat the blade and just take your time. I have done it, but unless you just have to have it, I wouldn't do it because of the possibility of over heating. I think those are nice blades just like they are.
Good Luck, I am sure it will look great so put some pics up when you get done.

Hi I have done it to a razor that I broke the tip off. I have posted the results in the workshop forum under new scales. I used a Dremel and went very slowly to make sure that I didn’t get to much heat into it. I personally kept touching the blade with my fingers and that made sure that I didn’t let it get to hot or I would have burnt my fingers.
Exile

Originally Posted by ENUF2

Ok, I have a W&B for Barbers use only that has had its notch ground off (all but just a little spot).

It's the top razor

Any ideas or should I just leave well enough alone?

I think that blades are how they should be. W&B made blades looks like that . i had 1 early. Again if you are going mess with it first Please make sure they are have been cut first. ( check the end of the blade you will notice it is factory cut or someone done it.)hope this helps

You have two nice razors there, and I would use them as they are and keep an eye peeled for a barber notched razor that you like. There's always more razors to be had.

Noooooooooooooooo!!!! Please don't do that...

As said before W&B made razors like that... they are beautiful.. and original. If you want one with a notch I am sure someone would be happy to exchange. Oh if I only had a notch...

Or find them a good home...

I'm sure this one had a notch it is more than 1/4 inch from the spacer closed and I can see and feel the remnant of where the notch use to be. I'm working with 2 other razors right now so I won't be making this decision for a little while but I see no harm leaving it the way it is for now. I can always change it down the road right? Thanks for the insight I have a little better idea of what I'm dealing with now.

while I agree with not doing it to these, you can do it the way mentioned with a dremel. I've done spanish point instead of the barber's notch, because I don't have the right size grinding bit.

my tip is this, the way I get good control is I hold the dremel in my non-dominant hand, bit out the top. I then hold the blade in my dominant hand and using the top of my thumb on the dremel hand as a rest I bring the blade to the dremel, rather than dremel to the blade. I don't know if that makes sense, but has worked well for me.

of course don't forget the water, that dremel heats the blade awful fast.

Red

OK if you must… then here are a few additional tips.

Use the Dremel “drum wheel, don’t use the “pink” abrasive wheels… the drum cuts faster and generates less heat… the pink wheels cut slower and generate more heat than work. The drums come in 3 grits, I believe 60, 120 and 220 use the 60 (the coarsest one).

Nail, bolt or screw a length of 2x4 to your bench and strap the Dremel to the other end with strong zip ties (double them up if you have to). Now you can hold the blade with both your hands.

Wrap the blade in wet newspaper and start cutt”n. Cut the notch as near to the spine end as practical. Remember there is much less steel at the edge end of the notch and it will cut away very fast and make the notch look “lopsided”, so stay away from the edge end of the notch (there is reason you don’t see many full hollow razors with notch… lolol).

Watch out for “wheel traction”… that means the wheel tend to “climb” out of the notch that you are trying to cut and hit the blade and or the spine depending on the direction of the spin, so you may want to turn the blade so the drum tend to climb towards the spine. Hold the blade firmly but not too tight or your grip may snap the blade if it’s thin enough. Also run the Dremel at mid to high speed… it will cut faster and be less likely to climb.

As mentioned before you use fine sandpaper wrapped around a rod of some kind to finish the notch… and shaping the edge side of the notch since it’s thinner and easier to cut by hand... and don't try to cut a deep notch with the drum... it may end up too big...

Note:: If you feel up to it, you could cut a staring notch with the Dremel cutting disk (the stiff orange disk) then change to the drum and continue the cut... I don't like the cutting disks though... they tend to come apart without notice.

The usual warnings, don’t loiter in the notch for long periods at a time… that will defiantly bring a color you don’t want to see… eye protection, dust mask etc, etc…

Incidentally... in believe in the old days they had a special "thin" wheel for cutting notches, they lay the razor flat on the cutting table and cut the notch across the toe... that's why most notches are square only to one side of the blade.