Results 21 to 25 of 25
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08-18-2009, 02:36 AM #21
- Join Date
- Mar 2007
- Posts
- 608
Thanked: 124Yeah, rust, boil, card. The boiling neutralizes the rusting process and converts the rust from ferrous oxide to ferro-ferric oxide (I had to look that up, I didn't know it off the top of my head like an expert would. I don't want to give the wrong impression that I'm superman at this). Basically, as I understand it, it makes it inactive. As to why it lessens pits and etchings, the more I think about it, it is counter intuitive. I thought the booklet I got warned of this, but I cant find it, perhaps they just look less noticeable b/c of the bluing and sanding.
However, all the sanding marks I made to get the blue to "bite" are gone, I'm sure about that. It may be that the surface material that I roughened to get the blue to take is gone, and that made the pits more shallow.
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08-18-2009, 03:21 AM #22
I see now. The boiling halts it so you're free to work on it without the rust running away from you... that would explain my problems with the rust getting out of hand. I have a nice razor with broken scales and a lot of gray patina/black staining that most people grind off. I will try again on this one...
Now that I think about it... that black staining that NEVER comes off... thats probably Ferric Oxide, ie unintentional blacking from age.
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08-18-2009, 03:29 AM #23
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Location
- Bangkok, Thailand
- Posts
- 1,659
Thanked: 235I like the look, but it is another thing that I am going to stay away from. Powertools, dangerous chemicals and Thai go go dancers. All off limits for me.
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08-18-2009, 03:31 AM #24
Sure the chemicals are dangerous... I accidentally breathed the tiniest bit of HCl and my throat burned and a was coughing for a while... but if you're extra careful nothing will come of it.
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08-19-2009, 02:34 AM #25
- Join Date
- Mar 2007
- Posts
- 608
Thanked: 124