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08-18-2009, 01:36 AM #1
Right I'll edit that. I did in fact degrease first with ample amounts of brake cleaner, then acetone. Only handled the blade with gloves.
You might be right about the order. From what I read and was told the boiling every repetition is NOT NECESSARY, but I think in the its better.
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08-18-2009, 01:49 AM #2
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- Mar 2007
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- 608
Thanked: 124Yeah, the guy I bought the bluing solution from said something about not boiling every time, but when I questioned he further he said he did, or at least I think thats what happened in that conversation. I can't really say if it has to be done everytime or not. I have reapplied the solution after about 1/2 hour of rusting and that seemed to make things go a bit faster, like it needed less applications.
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08-18-2009, 01:53 AM #3
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08-18-2009, 02:01 AM #4
Rust bluing is always black because iron has two oxides: red and black. Rust is red, this converted rust is black. The purplish blue comes from chemical bluing which can be one of two things. A reaction (the crappy rub on stuff that DOESN'T end up looking good) or tempering in a nitrate solution (nitre bluing). There's another kind of hot bluing that uses NaOH and NaNO3 which I think is also nitre bluing of sorts. At some point I'm gonna try and nitre blue but I don't have the money or time to set up a DIY nitre blue operation. I just dropped about $40 ($20 on HCl and Steel wool, $10 for chemical gloves, and $10 for containers and other stuff) on this rust bluing stuff, though it'll be free for a long time now. I have nitrates already and a burner and stuff, the problem is that the nitrate solution has to be about 600 deg. F, which is above "safe" temperature for a razor. It would need re-tempering. I might try the Caustic NaOH/NaNO3 version for, which is only around 300 deg F. Still, dealing with a boiling caustic solution requires proper set up and work and stuff....
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08-18-2009, 02:07 AM #5
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Thanked: 124