Thread: Wood Scales and the Wedge

I have been noticing many of the restored razors with new wood scales are not using the standard tapered wedge. These appear to have scale thicknesses more than the usual 1/8". The thickness of the wood seems to be the culpret here.

I recently acquired a razor with a set of wood scales that are thicker than normal and have a flat spacer. These thicker scales, though well made, don't seem to appear natural in both their looks and feel. The feel of these scales also seems to be exacerbated while trying to strop the razor. It is very difficult to maintain a rythm while stropping because of this.

So, is there a legitimate reason for making the wood thicker than standard thus requireing a flat spacer rather than a wedge? If it is for structural reasons, are there some woods better suited than others and if so which should be avoided and why?

Ray

In my experience, I think that it is harder and much less accurate the make a wedge than it is to make a spacer.

JMO.

I know that when I make my scales, I try to use the original wedge that came with the scales.

We right now have more "new" restorers then we ever have had in the past, this is a good thing....

However on the same note when you first start making scales there is a tendency to make them slightly larger then really necessary, as you do more and more they get tighter and tighter..... It is a progression.. Using true wedges also seems to be a progression, as the flat spacers are easier to make and use...

how about not use spacer at all. just make out of the scale on both side. on each side you will have a little thicker wood instead of spacer)that will look great.?

It seems like a bit of a cascade effect to me.

• If you make your scales thicker for whatever reason, they will have very little flex.
• This means, for a perfect fit, your spacer must be flat and exactly as thick as the tang.
• This means that your scales may not stop your razor when you close it, thus making your scales non-functional. (assuming the spine is of similar thickness to the tang)

It follows then, that for your scales to work properly, the spacer must be somewhat thinner than the spine of the blade. If you do make it thinner and pin the razor tightly, there will be a considerable amount of bending force applied to the scales caused by the need to conform to the flat surfaces of the spacer and the tang.

The most logical solution is to taper the spacer (making it a "wedge") and to make the scales flexible enough to conform to the tang (which is some cases is also tapered).

Problems arising from flat spacers and rigid scales include:

• Gaps caused from poor scale-spacer contact
• Uneven resistance throughout the opening/closing motion
• Cracking of the scales either when pinning or afterwards (material fatigue)
• Blade exposure on the bottom of the scales

Keep in mind, I'm not saying you can't make a nice looking, functional set of scales that are thick and have a flat spacer. Some of my earlier work looked this way. I just find the fit, finish and function to be improved with a wedge and thinner scales.

+1 on what floppyshoes said - bang on.

I so far have to agree with gssixgun and floppyshoes. I personally do not like the thicker scales, nor do I like the flat spacer and no pin on the end. Somehow they seem to lose the traditional look and feel. When I started making scales, I had a tendency to want to make them thicker also, it was a way to get more instant gratification I think. I have been making thinner and thinner scales since. I haven't used any of the prototypes I have created yet for two reasons. 1. I haven't been satisfied with the outcome yet, they just don't reach that fine detail I am looking for. 2. I am trying to incorporate different materials to create a visually pleasing design that makes it unmistakeable who the maker was. Hopefully that will happen very soon.

Thanks for your thoughts and opinions on this so far.

Ray