Thread: Some basic info on reparing rusty razors

Hi guys,

I've "learnt" to fix up razors through trial an error, but there are some things I haven't quite been able to figure out for myself, so I was hoping someone could fill me in.

I have no doubt that most of these questions have been answered elsewhere, but I have searched and haven't been able to find the answers.

1) Pinning an repinning razors: If you want to keep the scales, I've heard people say I've got to have a drill press. My budget doesn't quite stretch that far, what else can I use? When it comes to re-pinning, I can get microfasteners, but if you're doing it the old fashioned way, with a 1/16 piece of nickel, where can I get said nickel from from? Likewise, where can I get a Doming & Dapping set from?

2) When I'm removing rust/polishing on a bench grinder fitterd with a stiched sisal buff, I always get a build up of black gunk right in the deepest part of the blade, and sometimes around the edge of the area where I am buffing. What is this? Am I doing something wrong? How often should I be applying the cutting compound to the buff, and how hard should I be pressing the steel against the buff? (I know if I used a buff with a smaller diameter I wouldn't get the black gunk, but I don't have a smaller diameter buff yet).

Thanks for any advice

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You don't need a drill press - a small stiff file will do - file the pin flush with the scales then gently tap it through with a drift. I use a small bradle with a filed-down point for this.

Knife supply companies sell brass an nickel-silver rods, jewellers supply-houses sell doming and dapping sets - you see them on Ebay too.

A big build-up on the blade means you are using too much dressing on the mop. You shouldn't press too hard - you will get lines in the work from cutting compounds. You can't rely on cutting compounds to get rid of all marks - if the metal is seriously pitted hand-sanding first helps.

Originally Posted by Neil Miller

You don't need a drill press - a small stiff file will do - file the pin flush with the scales then gently tap it through with a drift. I use a small bradle with a filed-down point for this.

Knife supply companies sell brass an nickel-silver rods, jewellers supply-houses sell doming and dapping sets - you see them on Ebay too.

A big build-up on the blade means you are using too much dressing on the mop. You shouldn't press too hard - you will get lines in the work from cutting compounds. You can't rely on cutting compounds to get rid of all marks - if the metal is seriously pitted hand-sanding first helps.

+1 I do the same works fast and easy.

Thanks Neil, that is exactly the advice I was looking for. I know this is a hard question to answer (rather than just show), but when it comes to cutting compound, how much and how often? Are we talking dabbing the cutting compound onto the spining mop once over 30 seconds?...

Hi Bill - it is a bit tricky to answer, but you get a feel for it after a while. You should start by holding the bar pretty firmly against the mop for about 2 secs, maybe a bit less. Some people have the mop spinning while they coat it, some turn the power off and coat as the mop is slowing down. I only use small, not very powerful machines, so I keep the mop spinning.

After the initial dressing "little and often" is the way to go. A quick swipe every 30 secs should be fine. You don't want to see the "colour" of the mop get a lot darker - that means too much compound. Keep the work moving all the time, and don't concentrate on one spot. Take it off the mop often and look at it - that way you can see how its proceeding and also giving it a chance to cool a little. Above all, keep the work just below the centre line of the mop - that way, if it grabs it it will throw it backwards and not right at you.

When you change to another compound on a new mop, try to angle the work in a slightly different direction - that way you will be less likely to deepen lines, but will cut across previous lines and make them shallower.

If you need more cutting power than the bars can provide, you can get abrasive grit compound. It comes in a few grit sizes and melts onto the mop by the friction generated by the moving mop. It comes in polythene sleeves and has a shelf life and must be stored covered and cool, so try and get half sleeves or you'll end up wasting a lot of it.

If you really get into it, you can get glue to coat a mop with and grit to cover the mop - a more expensive initial outlay, but you get around the shelf-life of the sleeved product. You can do a lot of damage with abrasive grit, so I recommend getting used to the bars first, helped along with a bit of hand-sanding if needed.

Oh - nearly forgot - you will need to "dress" the wheel. That means raking a stiff wire brush over it. It gets rid of excess compound, metal particles, and it also rejuvenates the surface of the mop. The pupose-made wheel dressers are expensive - any stiff wire brush will do providing it doesn't shed bristles. I have even used a hand-drill wire brush bit in a pinch!