Quote Originally Posted by superfly
Raw linseed is lighter in color and wiscosity. The oxidized, or boiled is thicker, and becomes sticky quicker... Wax on oiled surface is standard finishing procedure...

Actually, boiling linseed oil is not exactly boiling, but saturating the oil with oxygen. It is done slowly at lower temperatures... I am not sure, but somewhere around 50-70 Celsius... The DIY method for "boiling" lineseed oil is better and easier to do: Take raw lineseed oil (try painting suplies), the lighter color, the better. Put into glass jar, and rig a aquarium oxugen pump into the oil. Make shure the tube (hose, pipe?) reaches the bottom of the jar. cover the jar with loosely wowen cloth (to prevent dust but allow air circulation), bandage material is nice. Put in sunny warm place, near the window, plug in, and let it "boil" for 2-3 weeks... The oil should thicken a bit, and maybe change its color to slightly darker yelowish...

Tung oil is exelent choice also...
I use boiled linseed oil on my kitchen cutlery which have ebony? or oak handles. It is fairly thick compared to, say, other salad oils and leaves a nice shine and tacky feel the longer you work it in with your palms. It would work great on the modern stabilized woods in razor-dom. I wouldn't apply it to horn, ivory, or (maybe even) hard-rubber. With the latter, I'd personally stick to thinner vegetable oils.