Thread: Right blade for my band saw.

I have a bandsaw by Skil that I bought at Lowe's last Christmas. I'm using the blade that came with it but when cutting harder woods for making my scales it takes forever and leaves blade marks. Is there a special band saw blade that I should be using for these hardwoods and/or an adjustment I can or should make on the tension?

Rich

“If it’s empty, fill it – if it’s full, empty it” - Christian Bale as Deiter Dengler in “Rescue Dawn”

I have the same saw, and the same problem. I think the solution is to get a finer tooth saw, may 5 or more TPI (Teeth per inch) for a finer cut?

I am interested in hearing what seasoned bandsaw users have to say.

If you are using it to resaw blocks into 1/8" stock for scales, there are a number of things you can do to decrease the blade marks:

1. Get a resaw blade. These remove material faster and allow you to make a faster cut. You would think this would increase the blade marks, but it doesn't really. If you can't find a blade specifically meant for resawing, try to find something 5 TPI or less with hooked teeth and a small offset.

2. If you have a large enough band saw, look into how to balance it. Vibrations from an unbalanced saw will cause uneven cuts. There are instructions on the net for this. If it's a smaller model, you will likely not be able to balance it, nor will you need to.

3. Make sure you dress your new blades before use. A small pocket knife hone can be used for this purpose.

4. Set up a proper resawing jig. I use a resawing fence and magnetic featherboard. (and please, PLEASE, pLeAsE! use a push stick)

5. Ensure that your blade bearings are in good shape and set correctly. Also ensure they are at the right hight for the cut.

6. Ensure your blade is clean. A blade covered in pitch will cut slower, heat up faster and dull sooner.

Thanks Dan! It's about time for another str8 razor get together on the south shore, don't you think?

Rich

“If man could be crossed with a cat it would improve man, but it would deteriorate the cat.” – Mark Twain

Here is a link to Woodcrafts blades.Bandsaw Blades - Woodcraft.com

When dealing with re-sawing you need to have a thicker blade to help keep the blade straight to the work because your cutting a thicker piece of wood.
Some blades have skip teeth to help push kerf out of the cut.
When I was re-sawing wood I used a jointed 2X4 as a fence and a feather board to keep the wood down on the table. I also made sure that the blade was sharp, aligned with my blade blocks both top and bottom. I always made sure to use a push stick when the end of the wood was close to the blade. And go slow as to not put a lot of stress on the blade.
Look at Olsen and Timberwolf for high quality blades. They have lots of information on how to and what blade you should buy for what the application is.

Thanks Turbine712! I'll check out the link.

Rich

Rich, I noticed that you are located in Canada. All the guys over at the Canadian Woodworking forum I frequent swear by this blade (and the guy who sells/produces them as well). Call them up and they will recommend the EXACT blade that is best for your saw and needs.

R&D Bandsaws - Featuring Tuff Tooth® Bandsaw Blades, Bandsaw Blades, Bandsaw Accessories, Olson Scroll Saw Blades, Kreg Products and more!

Good luck.
Mark

Thanks Milton Man! I'll check it out. Dan also recommended the following link Viking® Bandsaw Blades - Lee Valley Tools

Rich

I've been using a Woodslicer for resawing. Very smooth finish. I cut some 1/16th inch ebony slices a few weeks back that came out great.

Thanks Doghair! Good looking stuff. I'm on the right track now.

Rich

"There is no native criminal class except Congress,"- Mark Twain