Thread: bone scales by hand

Hello all,
I took all the replies to heart and am gonna stick with the bone scales. I am new to all this and would like to make these "by hand" (read: no power tools) as I don't own more than a grinder, jig saw and sawsall.

To my question: How important is it to have the inside of scale be flat/true? If paramount, what are some ways I could achieve this with the tools I currently own?? (have been working on flat tile and placing the piece on it and sanding it down.....very slow, even with 60 grit). I am getting down to about 1/4" and about 1/16" off of being flat.

thanks for the tips!
Bret

I know it is tool that you did not mention, but I do my rough flattening with a wood rasp. I do not like the smell of the bone sanding on power tools. you can get it pretty flat with a rasp then go to coarse sandpaper.

Charlie

this might help

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...-scales-2.html

I have a hard time picturing rasp use. The ones I have are very pointy toothed and slightly fragile and get dull too fast anyway. But a large double cut file? yes

When I use a file for stuff like this I usually secure the handle- in a vise or resting at the base of the sternum while seated- some way to keep the file stationary and hold the work to the file rather than trying to secure a small piece in vise, taking the file in hand to the work.

It is the only way to go imho.

I have heard talk of 24 inch files but they may not be made any more. a 16 inch is the largest i can find and that's what I mean by large.

One way to cut the shape is by scratching/cutting through with a "graver"-one you could make from a small square file, round etc.
A small replaceable blade japanese machine made saw will do it as well, but is very hard on teeth. A coping saw, jewelers saw, hack saw, butchers saw

I have two #49 Nicholson pattern makers rasp. One I baby and care of like a nice tool, the other I use for things like rasping bone or some other kind of abuse. I also used one those 4 in 1 Nicholson rasp on bone. A rasp will cut the bone but it is hard work. You have to apply enough pressure to make the teeth bight in and do not skate over the surface. It also helps if you rasp perpendicular to the length of the bone so that you have a smaller contact patch and can apply more pressure. If you let the rasp skate or keep pressure on it during the back stroke it will lead to dulling of the rasp. It works but is no cake walk.

edit: I do the first side flattening and rasping before the blanks are cut from the bone. that way there is enough to hold onto in the vise




Charlie